Hi fellas.
So I've never bothered with aftermarket decals, I just use the ones that come with the kit. But lately I've been annoyed about not being able to get rid of the edges of the film (using Microsol) on Tamiya armor kits. I've heard they are known for being quite thick and I seem to recall having a similar issue with some Dragon ones back in the day.
I'm therefor thinking of investing in some Star Decals for my next project, a Dragon M-48.
Will they give me that sweet sweet painted on look or will I get the same issue?
Are there any other brands that are better?
Many thanks fellas.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
After market decals better quality?
Phil5000
New Zealand
Member Since: May 13, 2013
entire network: 165 Posts
KitMaker Network: 30 Posts
Member Since: May 13, 2013
entire network: 165 Posts
KitMaker Network: 30 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 17, 2019 - 03:24 PM UTC
Kevlar06
Washington, United States
Member Since: March 15, 2009
entire network: 3,670 Posts
KitMaker Network: 527 Posts
Member Since: March 15, 2009
entire network: 3,670 Posts
KitMaker Network: 527 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 17, 2019 - 04:12 PM UTC
Almost all decals have some amount of carrier film. Tamiya and Hasegawa decals seem to have less film but they also seem to be thicker decals. Microscale decals are pretty good decals when considering thickness and film, but there are lots of other options out there. However, back to my first comment-- almost all decals have carrier film-- therefore, I always cut the film as close to the decal as possible with a scalpel blade. It's not necessary to cut completely through the decal paper, all you need to do is trace around the decal with the tip of the blade to separate the carrier film from the ink. Then, my absolute go-to decal softener is Solvaset. I don't use any other decal softener. If you want the decal to conform like paint, without a bunch of re-application or 2 part formulation hassle, you can always count on Solvaset. It does take some practice though, as Solvaset will melt the decal if you're not careful. It will cause the decal to "crinkle and wrinkle" the key is not to touch the decal, and let Solvaset work. When it dries, the decal returns to normal. I also recommend Micro-Scale Decal solution if you want to make your own decals or save some old ones.
VR, Russ
VR, Russ
Tojo72
North Carolina, United States
Member Since: June 06, 2006
entire network: 4,691 Posts
KitMaker Network: 668 Posts
Member Since: June 06, 2006
entire network: 4,691 Posts
KitMaker Network: 668 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 17, 2019 - 09:00 PM UTC
I have had good success with Dragon decals using Micro Set and Micro Sol,even on their kits with the molded on zimm,their decals snuggled right in for thst painted on look.Solvaset is also very effective.
ctkwok
Alabama, United States
Member Since: May 21, 2018
entire network: 197 Posts
KitMaker Network: 12 Posts
Member Since: May 21, 2018
entire network: 197 Posts
KitMaker Network: 12 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 18, 2019 - 03:22 AM UTC
I always use a 1000 grit sandpaper to lightly sand away the carrier film. It looks painted on afterwards.
Posted: Wednesday, September 18, 2019 - 07:12 AM UTC
I find Tamiya carrier film to be thick and stubborn compared to other makers and AM decals. I use the Micro-Sol/Micro-Set process on a well-glossed surface, but have a jar of Solvaset handy for truly recalcitrant decals. Once I get them down without any bubbles or silvering, I add a coat of gloss to hide the film edges before launching into the whole weathering process.
TopSmith
Washington, United States
Member Since: August 09, 2002
entire network: 1,742 Posts
KitMaker Network: 58 Posts
Member Since: August 09, 2002
entire network: 1,742 Posts
KitMaker Network: 58 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 18, 2019 - 03:30 PM UTC
You can also use dry transfers that you rub onto the kit that as far as I know, have no film. They look like paint.