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Dioramas
Do you love dioramas & vignettes? We sure do.
Building Ammo Crates/Shell casings
gbarksdale
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District of Columbia, United States
Member Since: January 15, 2008
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Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 03:46 AM UTC
Hello

I'm currently working on a diorama involving a Dragon 105mm Howitzer M2A1 I got for Christmas. However, it doesn't come with ammo crates. I thought I would build my own out of bits of wood. Any pointers?

Also, I wanted to have some empty 105mm shell casings lying around the gun. I've got brass tubing that will work, but I'm unsure about how to close off the end to represent the firing cap (or whatever it's called). Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!
HeavyArty
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Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 04:33 AM UTC
105mm ammo comes in wooden boxes, two to a box. The individual rounds are encased in a cardboard/tarpaper tube called a tootsie roll due to its dark brown color. I would recommend either buying an AM resin set, like the one below from ResiCast, or making them out of thin bass wood.

105mm ammo boxes and shells:



ResiCast set:


For the empty casings, you can use your tubing and cut circular pieces of thin plastic, glue them to the end, then sand them until there is only a small lip around the base. Another method, if you are a shooter, is .22 cal Long Rifle shells. They are just about perfect for 1/35 105mm shells and are already brass, so no painting required.



Good luck.
okdoky
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Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 05:09 AM UTC
Hi G

Why not make your own spent cases using tube or sprue of the right diameter to roll strips of basic tin foil round. Take account of the length of the casing when cutting your strip width.

Roll the foil round the sprue former, glue with super glue with slight overlap.

Use a hole punch to make the end cap circles and glue these to the tubes.

Spray with the correct brass or other shell casing colour.

The thin overlaps can be the edge on the diorama base so won't be seen.

If cooking foil to thin, use thicker roasting tray or carry out tray thickness..

I am sure you can make hundreds very cheaply.

Nige
jimbrae
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Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 05:18 AM UTC
Gino's absolutely right, the ONLY serious ammo and storage boxes are those from Resicast. In addition, an excellent set of Transfer stencils (designed for the set) is available from Archer:

http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=4673
Kenaicop
#384
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Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 05:33 AM UTC
Hey, is that last one Alaska? They used to use Army howitzers and recoiless rifles to shoot down avalanche threats along the highways up here, not sure if they still do with the war on and all. It was really neat to be driving along then see a crew, looking just like that pic, along the side of the highway.
gbarksdale
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Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 06:08 AM UTC
Thanks, guys.

Gino -- Thanks for the photo references. Really helpful!

Nige -- I appreciate your suggestion on the casings. I'll try that. I'd planned to use the brass tubing because it's the right diameter and, being brass, the right color and more realistic. But it may be more work than I bargained for. I'll try the sprue method.

Jim -- thanks for the link.

ElectricFactory
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Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 11:41 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Another method, if you are a shooter, is .22 cal Long Rifle shells. They are just about perfect for 1/35 105mm shells and are already brass, so no painting required.
.



I did not know that !
Excellent tip, many thanks.
bluefish
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Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 12:12 PM UTC
I think that the .22 cal is a little large. I wouild stick with the Resicast ammo. I've got a set and they look real nice. someday I'll work on my 105, that is after i finish my T-55, T24, T26.....et.al.
You can order Archer from them direct.
18Bravo
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Posted: Tuesday, October 20, 2020 - 09:19 AM UTC

Quoted Text


..Another method, if you are a shooter, is .22 cal Long Rifle shells. They are just about perfect for 1/35 105mm shells and are already brass, so no painting required.



Wow. Just happened across this old thread. Gonna have to raise the BS flag on this one.
A lot of folks don't realize this but a .22 LR bullet actually has a diameter of .224 in. The bullet diameter is the same as the casing. (heeled) That makes a .22 LR casing a whopping 7.84 scale inches in diameter. Not only that, but the rim on the .22 is far too thick and has a much larger diameter. Additionally there are usually some brand markings on the rear you'd have to grind off. In other words, it's too big! (That's what she said)



I may not be a shooter, but I've slept at a Holiday Inn Express a time or two.
RLlockie
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Posted: Wednesday, October 21, 2020 - 05:35 AM UTC
I built a 105mm wood crate from styrene sheet a few years ago (probably more than 20 actually!) and Accurate Armour cast me some copies. It was based on measuring a real one so dimensionally sound but I donít know if AA sells them commercially.

Iím in the midst of designing the cartridge case in CAD so that I can print the huge quantity that I need for a Dien Bien Phu emplacement. Itís a pretty simple shape so it shouldnít take long though.
jrutman
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Posted: Wednesday, October 21, 2020 - 06:18 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I built a 105mm wood crate from styrene sheet a few years ago (probably more than 20 actually!) and Accurate Armour cast me some copies. It was based on measuring a real one so dimensionally sound but I donít know if AA sells them commercially.

Iím in the midst of designing the cartridge case in CAD so that I can print the huge quantity that I need for a Dien Bien Phu emplacement. Itís a pretty simple shape so it shouldnít take long though.



I agree with the plastic sheet idea. I never build wooden stuff with wood as the grain is way out of scale. Plastic works much better and it is easier to get a sharp edge as well.
A good source for material to make the shell casings is Albion Metal brass tubing. They offer thin walled variants that are quite nice. Just make the base with a punch set.

J
18Bravo
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Posted: Saturday, October 31, 2020 - 03:55 AM UTC
When simulating wood, I prefer plastic to wood myself. With the right technique, looks pretty convincing. The biggest problem I find with wood is getting nice, smooth cuts.