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Armor/AFV
For all military ground-force modelling subjects.
SAS/LRDG
Pave-Hawk
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Western Australia, Australia
Member Since: May 05, 2006
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Posted: Friday, January 19, 2018 - 01:56 PM UTC
Since the kit doesn't come with names for R patrol vehicles, but has other markings for them, I printed up a new name, "ROTOWARO" on some white inkjet decal film:



The serial no for the vehicle was made up by cutting up the numbers from the provided serials and making my own, and some sixes became nines:



I did forget the spare tyres from my photos, but apart from that, the little stowage that's provided is here:




Straps for the canteens were also made from the same aluminium foil, just as narrow as I could manage.
Will probably need to sort some more stowage out once I finish the second jeep and start planning a diorama.
Pave-Hawk
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Posted: Friday, January 19, 2018 - 01:52 PM UTC
So i realise I missed some information in my process.

I made some straps for the buckles from thick aluminium foil from a baby formula tin



Jerry can brackets were made from scrap brass from my failed photoetch attempts



and then the jerry cans and straps were attached


Pave-Hawk
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Western Australia, Australia
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Posted: Monday, December 18, 2017 - 08:44 AM UTC
One of my jeeps is done










Chevy is nearly done too, just need to do decals, including the new name since Tamiya gave two vehicle names for T patrol but none for R patrol.

The other jeep will take a bit longer as I eill need to do things a bit differently to avoid some of the mistakes from the first jeep. It will also be getting the kit crew figures.
Pave-Hawk
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Western Australia, Australia
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Posted: Thursday, December 07, 2017 - 01:39 PM UTC
That is a nice looking chevy.
Brigandine
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Dunedin, New Zealand
Member Since: July 12, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, December 07, 2017 - 12:04 PM UTC
It's been a long time since I last posted anything in Armorama.
That aside, it's good to see your WIP on the LRDG Jeeps and Chevy Pave-Hawk.
It's been a couple of years since I completed my last LRDG Chevrolet 1533x2, which is based on a photo of a fitter's truck "COCK O' THE NORTH" of Y2 (or Yeomanry) Patrol:



And this is the model:











Unfortunately, THE COCK O'THE NORTH sign is a bit too big on the model, because I couldn't find letters that were small enough.

The weapons are a combination of Ultracast resin SMLE Mk III Lee-Enfields, one of which has been converted to the EY Grenade Launcher rifle, a Thompson M1928 from Master Box Models MB3598 LRDG in North Africa ( Armorama LRDG review) while the .50 cal is Acadamy's version, with scratch-built sights and magazine rack.
Pave-Hawk
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Western Australia, Australia
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Posted: Thursday, December 07, 2017 - 04:43 AM UTC
Chevy is being loaded up with equipment


as are the jeeps


Replacing the kit jerry cans, with mostly German ones from Academy


and ready to roll, but not quite


The bonnet mounted jerry cans are missing the straps that came moulded on the kit cans, so I made some buckles


Made a lot of them since I figured it wouldn't be perfect. Will make the straps out of paper or foil.
Pave-Hawk
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Western Australia, Australia
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Posted: Friday, December 01, 2017 - 09:25 AM UTC
Appreciate the picture, I have started on something that will look a bit better than the kit part.
Of course as soon as I did that I found the missing part. Turns out Tamiya numbered a part in the instructions wrong...



... and I had installed the sun compass where the fuel filler pipe should have gone. That,s fixed, but I will use my new compass.

Frenchy
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Rhone, France
Member Since: December 02, 2002
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Posted: Friday, October 13, 2017 - 06:07 PM UTC
It's up to you

The diameter of the pictured coin is 18mm :



H.P.
Pave-Hawk
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Western Australia, Australia
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Posted: Friday, October 13, 2017 - 03:54 PM UTC
Unfortunately I have zero fun tickets to use on aftermarket bits, and all my mods require stuff already on hand. I'll probably just take a stab in the dark as they don't seem particularly large.
Frenchy
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Rhone, France
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Posted: Friday, October 13, 2017 - 03:50 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Does anyone have the dimensions of the sun compass used by the LRDG, there are plenty of photos to get the shape correct but I can't find out how big it actually was.



If you're getting lazy like me, another option is ordering a PE one from Inside The Armor website

http://www.insidethearmour.com/pe.html

http://www.small-tracks.org/t7579-compas-solaires-sun-compass-1-35

H.P.
Pave-Hawk
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Western Australia, Australia
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Posted: Friday, October 13, 2017 - 11:59 AM UTC
Now witness the firepower of this fully ARMED and OPERATIONAL battle station... err jeep.


One jeep nearly down, just want to replace the kit jerry cans with some better ones.


Does anyone have the dimensions of the sun compass used by the LRDG, there are plenty of photos to get the shape correct but I can't find out how big it actually was.
Pave-Hawk
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Posted: Tuesday, October 10, 2017 - 05:16 PM UTC
Wheels installed on the Chevy

Seat painted up




Somewhere over the years part of the lewis gun mount went missing, so I knocked one up from some brass tube and a bit of fuse wire



Used brass instead of styrene because I had that in about the right size.


Pave-Hawk
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Posted: Tuesday, October 03, 2017 - 12:20 PM UTC
More work on the Chevy, chiselled the moulded on solid handles of the fuel cans and replaced them with some pieces of a photo etch fret. Slightly oversize but does the job



Masked up


and sprayed








Pave-Hawk
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Posted: Sunday, August 27, 2017 - 09:21 AM UTC
Jumping back and forth between vehicles on this build a bit.

Some more work to the jeeps, replaced the kit .50


with the correct version from an academy set


Cut of the bracket for the kit .50 and reinforced the academy mount with some 0.5mm steel wire


Added a styrene rod mount for the rear vickers guns


and made up some jerry can holders for the rear
Pave-Hawk
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Posted: Saturday, July 22, 2017 - 12:11 PM UTC
So some additional work on my "lathe" and the other wheels are drilled, along with a few of the required bolt holes. Managed to stuff up the one I absolutely didn't want stuffed up, but some cosmetic work should make it useful.



Unfortunately I discovered a slight issue with the rear wheels, in that they are missing a vital part to let them fit correctly on the rear axle. On the left is the aftermarket item, and on the right is my recast of the original kit wheel



Can't cut the resin mounting hub out successfully, and I seem to have thrown the original plastic away so I went back to my mould, and did a test pour with some epoxy to try and recreat just the hub section




Looks ok, but doesn't quite sit as far out as my wheel, so I may need to add a thin spacer from some scrap plastic sheet


Pave-Hawk
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Posted: Wednesday, July 12, 2017 - 04:32 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

and have also drilled out some of the bolt holes.


Be aware that the outer ring of bolts needs to remain, only drill out the inner ring of bolts.

The outer ring holds the two halves of the rim together, it's the inner half that holds the rim to the hub. That's why the outer bolts are usually painted red in commonwealth service, to remind crews to not unbolt them unless the tire is totally deflated, otherwise, with the tire under pressure, the loosened bolt can fly off and kill you.

Paul



Well now I know what the additional ring of bolts is for, cheers
I am copying the provided spare tyres which already have the correct bolt pattern.
tankmodeler
#417
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Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 - 07:43 PM UTC

Quoted Text

and have also drilled out some of the bolt holes.


Be aware that the outer ring of bolts needs to remain, only drill out the inner ring of bolts.

The outer ring holds the two halves of the rim together, it's the inner half that holds the rim to the hub. That's why the outer bolts are usually painted red in commonwealth service, to remind crews to not unbolt them unless the tire is totally deflated, otherwise, with the tire under pressure, the loosened bolt can fly off and kill you.

Paul
Pave-Hawk
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Western Australia, Australia
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Posted: Monday, July 10, 2017 - 12:59 PM UTC
ZOMBIE THREAD!!!!!!

resurrecting this build for the unfinished builds campaign.

Here's what I had at last review



Since then I have sprayed a new wash coat of colour as I wasn't happy with the wide variation, so now they are a bit closer while not being exactly the same,




Plan is to replace some of the weapons with items from Bronco's 17pdr/crew, and Bishop kits, as well as making use of the originals where necessary, plus the .50 machine gun from Academy as originally planned.



With the original rubber tyres split and my efforts at recasting them not entirely satisfactory, I bought replacements


Not sure why I bought two sets, but glad I did as I think one is actually a bad recast of the other, and this is the state of one of the wheels





Since each set only came with one spare and I figure LRDG trucks want lots of spares for the harsh desert conditions,
I got out what will laughingly be referred to as my lathe



and drilled out the center hole



Have done that on all the wheels from the dodgy set. and have also drilled out some of the bolt holes. These may just be mounted in the back coverd with a tarp, but I amy use some in dio later on.
Pave-Hawk
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Western Australia, Australia
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Posted: Monday, December 26, 2011 - 03:24 PM UTC
Ok, been a long time between efforts on this one, but slowly getting back into modelling and working on bits and pieces of my partially finished stash.

In one of my previous posts I mentioned the Chevys splitting rubber tyres and my intent to recast them in resin.

Well, here they are:


They are not perfect due to the rubber deforming slightly during the casting process, but with careful painting and weathering, and proper placement in a diorama, I think they should look like a decent set of worn tyres.
You can just see where one of the worst splits was actually duplicated in the resin on the lower left tyre, so a little filling will be needed.

There are also a few voids on some of the undercuts, but those are on the back side and shouldn't be visible once mounted to the vehicle.
Brigandine
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Dunedin, New Zealand
Member Since: July 12, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, October 19, 2006 - 06:10 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Done a bit more work on the chevy. Mounted and base coated the cargo section, and started painting the radio. (No new photos yet.)

Not sure how the cargo floor should be painted, if they were wooden or metal construction.


The 1533x2 Chevies were Canadian built, with 'Gotfredson 4BI steel ammunition body' - the floors were steel, and would have probably taken a reasonable beating, especially around the gun post.

The 'greedy boards' or extension peices above the main tray (where the 'Windom' aerial rods [B8]were mounted), front locker [B15, 20] and radio cabinet were wooden. Not that the greedy board posts were hollow, and were capable of being used as additional weapons mounts:




A careful look at these two photos will show other detail, apart from those mentioned. Note, for example, on T10 the additional cargo tie hook behind the fuel filler, the fire extinguisher on the bodywork behind the driver, and the panel line and boltheads behind the oil cans. The front faces of the lower lockers [B5 & 6] need about 1 mm sanded off - the lockers doors [B11] weren't quite flush with the bodywork (Tamiya's box art is actually quite accurate in showing the right detail).
There was also a noticable gap in the bodywork above the running boards.


Another thing Tamiya haven't quite got right is the size of the top opening to the radiator; the extra 'lip' which appears on the main cab moulding [A27], below the bonnet [A16] shouldn't be there - this can be removed by carefully reducing the thickness of the plastic platform forward of the radiator aperture Note how the bonnet opens? A line needs to be scribed across the top of the lip moulded onto A16.
See what I mean about those lower lockers being recessed?

Enough of the lecture! Enjoy your Chevy. I look forward to seeing it.
sahariana
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Member Since: September 01, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 - 02:22 PM UTC
Hi Mate

Pretty sure the body on the Chev is all steel. The earlier/original chevs had wooden bodies.
Look forwards to seeing some more pics, all the best
Dus
Pave-Hawk
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Western Australia, Australia
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Posted: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 - 01:39 PM UTC
Done a bit more work on the chevy. Mounted and base coated the cargo section, and started painting the radio. (No new photos yet.)

Not sure how the cargo floor should be painted, if they were wooden or metal construction.
Pave-Hawk
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Posted: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 - 12:43 PM UTC
The armament loadout I am going for with the jeeps will be one with a 50 up front and a twin vickers mount in rear, the other will have twin vickers up front, and either single or twin vickers in rear. If I go with dual twin vickers it just means I need to create another twin mount, 3 vickers in each kit means I have enough.

Havent decided on how exactly the chevy will be setup yet.

Haven't done any work on them this week, work has been exhausting and just haven't felt up to it.
Brigandine
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Posted: Monday, September 18, 2006 - 06:00 PM UTC
Now that you mention it...well spotted! How are you going for the Vickers K guns? I have plenty of spares from a couple of Italeri's 'Commando' Jeeps.
Pave-Hawk
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Posted: Monday, September 18, 2006 - 12:55 PM UTC
Thats the 50 I'm going with, you can see it just sitting on the passenger seat in the photos.

I actually had the wrong type prepared and ready to mount before I realised I should probably make sure which one I needed.