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Armor/AFV: Axis - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Axis forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
RFM Jagdpanther Ausf. G2 Build Log
d111298pw
#456
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Posted: Saturday, March 21, 2020 - 04:59 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Other than the fit issue the build looks very good but I have a question: Why did you leave the tools in bare metal when German practice was to paint them with protective lacquer, usually black/dark gray?



I was not aware of that fact. I appreciate the information. I'll make note of it in future builds.
brekinapez
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Posted: Friday, March 20, 2020 - 07:07 AM UTC
Other than the fit issue the build looks very good but I have a question: Why did you leave the tools in bare metal when German practice was to paint them with protective lacquer, usually black/dark gray?
d111298pw
#456
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Posted: Friday, March 20, 2020 - 02:04 AM UTC

Quoted Text

So, curious question. Why use the Gunze Mr Metal Primer when you then go & spray the frets with the Rustoleum product? Kind of 'double handling' isn't it, when you could've just sprayed the Primer in the 1st place?
Just a thought...



The Gunze "Metal Primer" is not a primer as your thinking of it. It etches the metal so that primer/paint sticks to it better. Once it has been etched, you don't really need the gray primer. You can directly apply paint to the PE. I just prefer to give the paint a better surface to adhere too. So, I apply the primer between the etched surface and the paint..
d111298pw
#456
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Posted: Friday, March 20, 2020 - 01:59 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Mark, this is an impressive build! Thank you for the in-detail sharing!

Did you fix the problem with the hull fit? How did you do it? Or are you having it on display as an "exploded view"?



Unfortunately, I haven't been able to resolve the fit issue. I tried sanding the angled sides of the shell racks. This did help some, but not completely. I'll probably display it "exploded view".
Khouli
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Posted: Sunday, March 15, 2020 - 07:14 PM UTC
I think the Gunze product is the primer, and the second treatment is a primer fixer. They are different products, not both primers.
chauvel
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Posted: Friday, March 13, 2020 - 01:56 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I have decided to try doing a build log of the subject kit. I've not done one before, so we'll see how it goes. I plan to build in the order laid out in the instructions, which I normally don't do. I'll highlight anytime I deviate from the steps, and why.

Here is a link to the "in-box" review I wrote.
http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=14417

Here is the kit.



There are two frets of PE, so, I'll take care of them first, before beginning with step 1. I always prime my PE, not everyone does. I apply Mr. Metal Primer to both sides of the frets.



Then, I prime them with Rust-Oleum Primer Sealer. This is a primer specifically for multiple materials, especially metal.



Primed and ready.



Time to go to Step 1



So, curious question. Why use the Gunze Mr Metal Primer when you then go & spray the frets with the Rustoleum product? Kind of 'double handling' isn't it, when you could've just sprayed the Primer in the 1st place?
Just a thought...
Khouli
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Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2020 - 07:27 PM UTC
This has been a very informative and enjoyable build, thankyou for taking the time to blog it.

Did you resolve the hull issue?

I have just bought the RFM 1/35 Panther Ausf G with full interior - but it has the same problem as this kit - NO SCHURZEN!

Does anyone know which aftermarket Schurzen would be suitable for these kits?
guni-kid
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Posted: Monday, March 02, 2020 - 01:35 AM UTC
Mark, this is an impressive build! Thank you for the in-detail sharing!

Did you fix the problem with the hull fit? How did you do it? Or are you having it on display as an "exploded view"?
d111298pw
#456
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Posted: Monday, October 07, 2019 - 02:33 PM UTC
Thanks for the positive comments guys.
Braille
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Posted: Sunday, October 06, 2019 - 04:36 PM UTC
@d11129pw – Mark,

It has been a pleasure and an inspiration following your build. You successfully completed a huge part count kit and that itself is quite a feat. Thanks so much for your effort and for all of the tips while getting this piece together.

~ Eddy
raivo74
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Posted: Friday, October 04, 2019 - 11:33 PM UTC
Thanks, Mark, it was most informative build and I'm sure it would be very useful for fellow modellers including me!
d111298pw
#456
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Posted: Friday, October 04, 2019 - 10:53 PM UTC
The journey is coming to an end. We are at the last step of the build, Step 64. We add the front fenders, tow cables, and roof panel.

Instructions


Parts


You are provided two type of tow cable "eyes". The difference is their length, as you can see in the picture.


I selected J86 as it looks like the one used in pictures from my reference books.


RFM uses 3 separate pe parts for the headlight. I found this to be a real pain in the a** to assemble to the headlight. So, I left it off.

The fit of the fenders is not a problem.

The fit of the roof to the superstructure is not perfect. It doesn't sit squarely without a little persuasion.

Pics of finished build








As you can see, the superstructure DOESN’T fit on the lower hull. This is very disappointing. I may play around with the fit and see if I can improve it, but I’m not sure I have the skill level for that.

The level of detail in this kit is next level. With that comes many frustrating issues with getting it all to fit properly. Clearly, I wasn’t successful in getting it perfect. I’m sure more experienced builders won’t have the same issues as I came across. Many times, I had to walk away from the table for a few days and come back with a clear head.

Overall, I enjoyed the challenge of the build, and I was able to push my skill level up a notch. For those that will be building this in the future, hopefully I have highlighted one or two things to help you.

On to the next build.
d111298pw
#456
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Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 - 11:35 PM UTC
The tracks have been painted and installed





The next step is the last one for the build. I then need to finish painting the tools and install them.
d111298pw
#456
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Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 - 11:33 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Looking good! I like the interior detail!



Thanks Thomas
trahe
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Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 - 06:40 AM UTC
Looking good! I like the interior detail!
d111298pw
#456
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Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 - 02:16 AM UTC
I've completed the left track as well.





And the spare track links


Time to paint.
d111298pw
#456
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Posted: Tuesday, October 01, 2019 - 07:12 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Mark,
Been a while since I checked in. Everything looks great!



Thanks
GazzaS
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Posted: Tuesday, October 01, 2019 - 05:21 PM UTC
Mark,
Been a while since I checked in. Everything looks great!
d111298pw
#456
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Posted: Tuesday, October 01, 2019 - 04:31 PM UTC
I've completed the right side track and the test fit was good.





On to the left side track, and the spare links.
d111298pw
#456
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Posted: Monday, September 30, 2019 - 10:52 PM UTC
The main focus of Step 63 is the assembly of the tracks.

Instructions


I'm not attaching the superstructure at this time. I haven't decided how I want to display this once it's finished.

RFM also includes the option to build the track assembly tool for a diorama.

RFM also includes ice cleats (X4) for a winter build. The instructions also show these are part X7. That is not correct. Only X4 is the cleat. You are only given seven on each X Sprue. In reality, these were installed on every 5th to 7th track link. For 87 links, this would require 12-18 ice cleats per side. RFM hasn't given you enough to assemble correctly.

Parts




Track Assembly Jig - Glue the two parts together and it will hold 11 links.


You need to be careful of the orientation of the links. Otherwise, you will assemble them backwards. Here, I show the correct and wrong orientation.


Here are the first 11 links in the jig


You have two types of pins, X14 & X15. Which side you install these determines if it is a left or right side track. X14 is the outside pin. The pins are grouped in sets of five to make is easy to install.


The assembled first run for the right side.


Test fit around the Drive Sprocket



Place the complete link into the first spot on the jig. Then place the next links to complete the second run.


Continue doing this until all 87 links are assembled.

The tracks are designed to be workable. You need to carefully place a drop of glue at the head of each pin. Too much glue, and the track won't move. I use a pin to place the drop.


This is a slow process that can't be rushed.
d111298pw
#456
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Posted: Sunday, September 29, 2019 - 10:15 PM UTC
Step 62 finishes the roof assembly.

Instructions


Parts


The instructions tell you to connect Y29 and Y79 with a wire through the hole. If you elect to do it this way, a .2mm or .3mm wire should be used. I elected to glue the parts together as I won;t be having the assembly moveable.

Assembled



Next up are the tracks.
d111298pw
#456
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Posted: Sunday, September 29, 2019 - 09:35 PM UTC
Getting closer to the finish line. Step 61 continues with the roof assembly.

Instructions


Parts


Installed



It's easy to loose that tiny pe bracket, Y86. No real issues here.
d111298pw
#456
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Posted: Saturday, September 28, 2019 - 11:23 PM UTC
Step 60 starts the roof panel assembly. This version of the kit has the roof as a clear part. That gives you the option of leaving it clear and being able to view the interior. Or, you can paint it. I'll be leaving it clear for my build.

Instructions


I started with sub-steps A32 and A33

Parts for A32/33


One of the handles (L20) disappeared on me. So, I scratched a replacement from .5mm wire.


Parts for the step


Assembled



No real issues here. The hatches don't fit together that well. But, it's good enough for me.
d111298pw
#456
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Posted: Friday, September 27, 2019 - 11:31 PM UTC
Step 59 adds the outer roadwheels.

Instructions


Parts


Installed



The running gear is now complete. I'll attach the drive sprockets after the tracks are assembled.
d111298pw
#456
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Posted: Friday, September 27, 2019 - 10:42 PM UTC
Step 58 adds the Drive Sprocket, Double Roadwheels, and Idler Wheel.

Instructions


Parts


Installed



The roadwheels fit easily as these use polycaps.