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General Ship Modeling
Discuss modeling techniques, experiences, and ship modeling in general.
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1/200 HMS Rodney with Pontos Stuff
surfsup
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Posted: Friday, November 23, 2018 - 09:53 AM UTC
Very nice and clean work so far Warren.....Cheers mark
JJ1973
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Posted: Sunday, November 04, 2018 - 07:40 AM UTC
Hi Warren,

even if you've been stalled a bit over the camouflage and colors, still great progress and very fine work on your Rodney! I've been away rather long, so there is still enough new for me to see!

Nice Walrii business, reminds me on something quite a few years ago...

Cheers,
Jan
RussellE
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Posted: Wednesday, October 31, 2018 - 08:26 AM UTC
They're pretty good over at Sovereign Hobbies for help aren't they Warren!

good to hear you've finally got the disruptive pattern nutted out-we wait with baited breath for progess-meanwhile over to the Gearing!
warreni
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Posted: Tuesday, October 30, 2018 - 07:16 PM UTC
Hello everyone.

Unfortunately the Rodney is stalled while I get the paints I need for that 1943 camo scheme.

Thanks to Jamie from Sovereign hobbies I now have the means to make my paper masks. I have already printed them out and they can hibernate for a little while.

In the meantime I have decided to build a subject I have had in ny stash for well over 5 years, the Dragon 1/350 USS Gearing.

Will start up another blog in just a minute. See you there!

Warren
warreni
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Posted: Tuesday, October 16, 2018 - 10:04 PM UTC
There have been a few developments in the camo scheme saga I will pass on later.
RussellE
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Posted: Tuesday, October 16, 2018 - 09:18 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Argh!! I need a good stiff drink I think. Might have to open my 21 year old Scotch and have a wee dram or 20..

If I paint the Rodney in her 'Sink The Bismarck' scheme it is going to look alot like the 1/200 HMS Nelson I have sitting in the stash which is going to be in her late war Haze Grey scheme.

But stuffing around trying to get the right colours and the actual scheme correct seems like a very large PIA and waste of time. As I can't seem to find decent sized diagrams of both sides of the ship in her camo scheme it is going to be very difficult to make my masks up for spraying the scheme as I usually do. And brush painting the huge hull etc is just not really feasible.

Where's that Scotch....




Sorry to do this to you Warren

The late war "Haze grey" scheme you mention for Nelson would be quite distinct to Rodney's early war home fleet colours:


For the late war Haze grey/BPF service she would have had (correct me if I'm wrong) the Admiralty Standard Camouflage Scheme A:

Vertical Surfaces—G45 (Warm Light Grey)

Blue panel on hull—B20 (Medium Blue-Grey)

Steel decks & walkways-Dark deck Grey

So doing Rodney in the early war home fleet colours of AP507B for the vertical surfaces with dark deck grey would look a fair bit different from Nelson, even though these two ships were hard to tell apart.

Now, the #1 rule I use when building a model: If I can't find out what is the correct camo scheme (or anything else for that matter) then what chance does anyone else? So, based on that logic, how can it be wrong?

So if that's all that's holding you back from the camo, then I say go for it!
RedDuster
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Posted: Tuesday, October 16, 2018 - 06:53 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Argh!! I need a good stiff drink I think. Might have to open my 21 year old Scotch and have a wee dram or 20..

If I paint the Rodney in her 'Sink The Bismarck' scheme it is going to look alot like the 1/200 HMS Nelson I have sitting in the stash which is going to be in her late war Haze Grey scheme.

But stuffing around trying to get the right colours and the actual scheme correct seems like a very large PIA and waste of time. As I can't seem to find decent sized diagrams of both sides of the ship in her camo scheme it is going to be very difficult to make my masks up for spraying the scheme as I usually do. And brush painting the huge hull etc is just not really feasible.

Where's that Scotch....




Apologies Warren,

I think Russ is correct, just been digging through my books again, and there is a clear photo in Raven & Roberts that shows the Rodney coming out of Boston, and in that the hull and the upperworks very much appear to be the same colour.


Cheers

Si
warreni
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Posted: Tuesday, October 16, 2018 - 10:39 AM UTC
Argh!! I need a good stiff drink I think. Might have to open my 21 year old Scotch and have a wee dram or 20..

If I paint the Rodney in her 'Sink The Bismarck' scheme it is going to look alot like the 1/200 HMS Nelson I have sitting in the stash which is going to be in her late war Haze Grey scheme.

But stuffing around trying to get the right colours and the actual scheme correct seems like a very large PIA and waste of time. As I can't seem to find decent sized diagrams of both sides of the ship in her camo scheme it is going to be very difficult to make my masks up for spraying the scheme as I usually do. And brush painting the huge hull etc is just not really feasible.

Where's that Scotch....

RussellE
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Posted: Monday, October 15, 2018 - 10:19 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Warren,

Your model mate. At the time of the Bismarck chase I think the hull was AP507B and the superstructure was 505C.

Not sure when she was repainted, sometime in 1942, the shields weren't added to the 4.7 until august '43 - give or take the kit fit will be close for mid / late 42, at which tme she could have still been in grey.

But as I said it is your model.

If I get the puppy I will be backdating to the Bismarck chase fit.

Cheers

Si



Careful with that one Si.

I think Rodney and KGV were painted the same at the time of the Bismarck episode which means all vertical surfaces were AP507B and horizontal/decks were dark deck grey. AP507A/B being applied to home fleet vessels while AP507C was used on foreign stations at that time.

AP507C was only applied to the superstructure with the hull in AP507B post war. Rodney and Nelson didn't survive much beyond the end of the war and never (If i recall correctly) received that paint scheme.

According to Sovereign hobbies what we used to think was AP507A was in fact dark deck grey. Dark deck grey was in fact its own colour while AP507A was just a variation on AP507B.

There's a great colour chart here which provides colours per year and where the vessel was stationed.

But of course, as Si said Warren, it's totally up to you
RedDuster
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Posted: Monday, October 15, 2018 - 05:02 AM UTC
Hi Warren,

Your model mate. At the time of the Bismarck chase I think the hull was AP507B and the superstructure was 505C.

Not sure when she was repainted, sometime in 1942, the shields weren't added to the 4.7 until august '43 - give or take the kit fit will be close for mid / late 42, at which tme she could have still been in grey.

But as I said it is your model.

If I get the puppy I will be backdating to the Bismarck chase fit.

Cheers

Si
warreni
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Posted: Sunday, October 14, 2018 - 06:07 PM UTC
I think I have been pondering this camo scheme for too long. There is a much easier solution than tring to get accurate colours etc and try to paint superstructure in the camo scheme, and that is to paint her as she was when she was following the Bismarck... all over grey..

Comments?
warreni
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Posted: Sunday, October 14, 2018 - 11:12 AM UTC
Greetings from Australia.

I have finally worked out how to successfully spray the Hataka paints I bought for the Wodney. I have been doing that , or working on my old cars, over the past week or so. Looking at pictures of painting is just like watching paint dry to me, ezpecially when the colour grey you are currently usinf is the same colour as the plastic you are painting (well so close it is difficult to tell the difference).

When I start spraying some different colours to build up the camo pattern I will start posting pictures again. Sound fair?

Cheers
Warren
RedDuster
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Posted: Thursday, October 11, 2018 - 07:31 PM UTC
No worries Warren,

Good luck, and really enjoying following this build.

Cheers

Si
warreni
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Posted: Thursday, October 11, 2018 - 02:10 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Nice work Warren.

I blag my way around RN camo with Tamiya acrylics, I am not totally precious about the exact shade, it looks about right, I'll take it.

I would use:-

AP505C - XF80 RN light grey.
MS1 - XF69 Nato Black
MS2 -XF58 olive green, toned down with some XF80, or white.
B5 - XF18 Medium blue mixed with a little XF20 medium grey.

I can't give you exact proportions because I just stir it till I am happy.


Frankly I do it the hard way because I have never got the hang of airbrushing enamels.


Hope that helps Mate.

Cheers

Si

warreni
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Posted: Thursday, October 11, 2018 - 02:09 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Nice work Warren.

I blag my way around RN camo with Tamiya acrylics, I am not totally precious about the exact shade, it looks about right, I'll take it.

I would use:-

AP505C - XF80 RN light grey.
MS1 - XF69 Nato Black
MS2 -XF58 olive green, toned down with some XF80, or white.
B5 - XF18 Medium blue mixed with a little XF20 medium grey.

I can't give you exact proportions because I just stir it till I am happy.


Frankly I do it the hard way because I have never got the hang of airbrushing enamels.


Hope that helps Mate.

Cheers

Si



Thanks for that Simon.

I am with you re exactitude of colours. They would have varied almost day-to-day especially in the tropics.

I actually sprayed some Hakata paints successfully last night but there is still a deafening silence after I asked them a question via Facebook about thinning ratios.

I have no trouble with Enamels, except for the clean up which I hate, but Tamiya paints are extremely easy to get locally but I think I have all the colours you listed in my collection.

Cheers
Warren
RedDuster
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Posted: Tuesday, October 09, 2018 - 08:52 AM UTC
Nice work Warren.

I blag my way around RN camo with Tamiya acrylics, I am not totally precious about the exact shade, it looks about right, I'll take it.

I would use:-

AP505C - XF80 RN light grey.
MS1 - XF69 Nato Black
MS2 -XF58 olive green, toned down with some XF80, or white.
B5 - XF18 Medium blue mixed with a little XF20 medium grey.

I can't give you exact proportions because I just stir it till I am happy.


Frankly I do it the hard way because I have never got the hang of airbrushing enamels.


Hope that helps Mate.

Cheers

Si
RussellE
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Posted: Monday, October 08, 2018 - 10:53 PM UTC
Hi Warren

nice progress.

Sorry I can't help with the paints either.

I too use enamels. Colourcoats in fact.

I stocked up before WEM went bust a few years back. Of course they're now run by Sovereign hobbies.

IMHO you can't go past em! Yes, they may be expensive, but I use 2 parts paint to 1 part thinner in the airbrush and can complete an entire 1/350 battle wagon with around 2~3 pots of grey, depending on the complexity and one pot of antifouling.

Their quality is 2nd to none and the colours are spot on.

How's that for a promo? And I don't even work for them!

I should though. Seriously.
warreni
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Posted: Monday, October 08, 2018 - 11:48 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Warren,

Nice progress. Like how the ladders are off-set from the walls. A lot of modelers will just lay the ladder on the wall removing the 3D effect.

Sorry I can't help you with your paint question. Sounds like to don't like enamel paints. I prefer enamels over acrylics on ship models.

Mark



A PE bending tool, tweezers or fine pliers make it an easy job to bend ladders, especially in 1/200 scale.
d6mst0
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Posted: Monday, October 08, 2018 - 12:27 AM UTC
Warren,

Nice progress. Like how the ladders are off-set from the walls. A lot of modelers will just lay the ladder on the wall removing the 3D effect.

Sorry I can't help you with your paint question. Sounds like to don't like enamel paints. I prefer enamels over acrylics on ship models.

Mark
warreni
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Posted: Sunday, October 07, 2018 - 06:12 PM UTC
OK. Time for a quick update. I have got the following superstructure bits finished..





And there are other pieces as well but I just didn't get around to photographing them. Then, for the first time in months I fired up the compressor and applied some paint to the metal decks in preparation for applying the wooden deck. I also painted the vents etc that festoon the deck.



Now for a question the the people who know more about RN colours than I will ever need or want to know..

As Soverign Colorcoats are too expensive here in Australia (try $6.50 per tin plus p[ostage) and they are enamels, and I have given up on Hataka as I can't seem to get an answer on how to thin them properly (and they don't dry matt) I am looking for rations to mix Gunze or Tamiya acrylics to get the four colours I need;
507C
MS1
MS2
B5

Any help would be most appreciated.

Cheers
Warren
warreni
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Posted: Sunday, October 07, 2018 - 05:52 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Am building the 1/200 Nelson also with Pontos set and after i installed the metal barrels i noticed that the last turret (closest to the bridge) cannot rotate freely anymore as the barrels are touching the middle barbette, they are either too long or something else in wrong with the dimensions of the parts.Have you noticed that yet?



Hi Kostas.

I have been admiring your work for many years. Do you do it as a full time job as you seem to pump them out!

Back to your question, no, I haven't moticed it yet as I haven'y got that far just yet. The turrets are all built and waiting paint and I don't want to touch them and get oily fingerprint on them. I will keep an eye out.

Cheers
Warren
RedDuster
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Posted: Sunday, October 07, 2018 - 10:16 AM UTC
Hi Warren.

Very nice work, I am impressed by the extra level of detail in 1/200th.

Cheers

Si
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Posted: Saturday, September 29, 2018 - 08:08 PM UTC
Am building the 1/200 Nelson also with Pontos set and after i installed the metal barrels i noticed that the last turret (closest to the bridge) cannot rotate freely anymore as the barrels are touching the middle barbette, they are either too long or something else in wrong with the dimensions of the parts.Have you noticed that yet?
warreni
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Posted: Saturday, September 29, 2018 - 04:05 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Great progress, Warren, and that etch looks fantastic!


A small suggestion; the three pronged device with the spoon-like ends appears to be an anemometer; should the ends be rotated 90 degrees?




Quite possibly. Didn't dawn on me that an anemometer would be that big in 1/200.
d6mst0
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Posted: Wednesday, September 26, 2018 - 08:13 AM UTC
Warren,

That is some mighty, mighty fine PE work.

Mark