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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Safest gloss coat pre / post decals
Brianlee
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Posted: Friday, January 12, 2018 - 04:56 PM UTC
Guys - have a model ready for decals and wanted to know what is a safe clear gloss I can run through my
Airbrush that won't clump / react with the model air Vallejo paints I use.

I noticed the TS-13 Tamiya our of the can tends to splatter and a light coat will still seem to dry with a texture.

I just see people running into white / hazing issues and don't want that


Any ideas ?
retiredyank
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Posted: Friday, January 12, 2018 - 05:10 PM UTC
Pledge Future Floor Polish. It is an acrylic and self levelling. I apply 4-5 coats, before the decal and 2-3 coats, on top of the decal. Spray 10-18 psi, without reduction. Slow passes and let dry, in between coats.
Jack_Turmoil
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Posted: Friday, January 12, 2018 - 05:25 PM UTC
I use Future, as well. It provides a beautiful finish and is very cheap, compared to dedicated gloss coats. I find about 3-4 light coats is good. Let it dry for about 24-36 hours. It is self leveling and dries as hard as a rock. Use Windex with ammonia to clean out the airbrush. I also use it to dip clear parts in, to eliminate scratches.
Tojo72
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Posted: Friday, January 12, 2018 - 05:45 PM UTC
I really like Alclad Aqua Gloss
Belt_Fed
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Posted: Friday, January 12, 2018 - 06:49 PM UTC
Tamiya Clear thinned 50/50 with Mister Leveling thinner. When you are done spraying the clear, apply another layer or two of straight up Mr. Leveling thinner. This will dry to a a high gloss that is much better than Future.
M4A3E8Easy8
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Posted: Friday, January 12, 2018 - 08:22 PM UTC
My vote is Future. I spray a light coat, straight from the bottle, on and let it dry 5 to 10 mins at most and shoot a second heavier coat then let that dry fro 24 hours before putting decals on. If I decal any sooner the decal set will make the future go white. Some times more future will fix this but not always. (just let it dry) Then after the decals have dried 12 hours or so I just dip a wide brush in future and paint over the decal. You are only trying to protect the decal at this point, why put another layer of paint over the whole model.

Future is cheaper than the other products and being an acrylic you do not have to worry about any weathering attacking your base coat unless you are using a VERY hot thinner. I do clean with windex but FLUSH the airbrush with water and then take it apart and make sure all the windex is out. The amonia will attack the airbrush and can damage it.
j76lr
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Posted: Friday, January 12, 2018 - 08:56 PM UTC
what do you use as a dull coat after?
j76lr
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Posted: Friday, January 12, 2018 - 08:56 PM UTC
And what is the purpose ? just to sandwich the decals ?
Neo
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Posted: Friday, January 12, 2018 - 09:41 PM UTC
#1 Future (sometimes whole kit, sometimes just where decals are placed w/ hand brush).
#2 Then Micro Sol & Micro Set when placing image.
#3 Poly S Flat

When I airbrush I also use Windex for cleanup...
retiredyank
#160
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Posted: Friday, January 12, 2018 - 10:22 PM UTC

Quoted Text

what do you use as a dull coat after?



The next step is to apply a filter. You don't want it wiping off, where you have applied a gloss coat.
Tojo72
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Posted: Friday, January 12, 2018 - 10:58 PM UTC

Quoted Text

what do you use as a dull coat after?



Alclad II Lacquer Klear Kote Flat

Or

Vallejo Resin Acrylic Matte Flat 70.520
j76lr
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Posted: Saturday, January 13, 2018 - 02:43 PM UTC
thanks !
Brianlee
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Posted: Saturday, January 13, 2018 - 05:06 PM UTC
Wow --- thanks for all the great input guys. Awesome info. The future seems like what most are doing but I would rather avoid windexing the Iwata, so may look into the dedicated gloss coats.

So the acrylics wont give that white look? What infact causes those nasty reactions? I see too little drying time from the above poster on here but anything else?

I have always just flatted over decals with spray MM dullcote over the years and weathering always would always hide any issues with silvering as I never saw any issues.

Brianlee
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Posted: Saturday, January 13, 2018 - 05:08 PM UTC
What about this stuff from Alclad as well?:

https://www.amazon.com/Alclad-II-Gloss-Klear-Kote/dp/B003GHJ74Y/ref=pd_sim_21_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003GHJ74Y&pd_rd_r=R029AA831P0RNNCD2HYG&pd_rd_w=5gCiC&pd_rd_wg=HTXWB&psc=1&refRID=R029AA831P0RNNCD2HYG
tanknick22
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Posted: Saturday, January 13, 2018 - 06:03 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I use Future, as well. It provides a beautiful finish and is very cheap, compared to dedicated gloss coats. I find about 3-4 light coats is good. Let it dry for about 24-36 hours. It is self leveling and dries as hard as a rock. Use Windex with ammonia to clean out the airbrush. I also use it to dip clear parts in, to eliminate scratches.



I second that on future
I bought a big bottle of it at walmart for about $6
im planning on trying to take some and adding some teal food coloring to make a clear teal to make the armored glass on mraps
i had a very bad experience with Alclad II lacquer armord glass
it fogs up clear parts and cracks it


retiredyank
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Posted: Saturday, January 13, 2018 - 06:07 PM UTC

Quoted Text

very bad experience with Alclad II lacquer armord glass
it fogs up clear parts and cracks it





I wondered if a solvent based paint would do that.
Tojo72
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Posted: Saturday, January 13, 2018 - 10:15 PM UTC



I prefer their Aqua Gloss as it is acrylic and works well when using enamel or oil washes
AgentG
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Posted: Monday, January 15, 2018 - 01:39 AM UTC
Testors "Aztek" Clear Gloss. Airbrushes well, very mild and can be flat coated with nearly everything.

Easy to use, my now 13 year old grandson achieved a really good gloss coat on a car model he built last year.

G
newnikonian
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Posted: Monday, January 15, 2018 - 08:49 AM UTC
I use Mr.Color super clear.... Never had any problem even after HEAVY weathering. I use spray can if spraying the entire model and do decals, Seal it with another clear coat, followed by washes.

If just for decals, use the same from their smaller bottle with leveling thinner .... Do in ventilated location Drying time is fast.... I normally leave for few hours....As for as Future floor polish, ..... nothing compares with the cost saving though
flippen_waffles
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Posted: Wednesday, January 17, 2018 - 12:13 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Wow --- thanks for all the great input guys. Awesome info. The future seems like what most are doing but I would rather avoid windexing the Iwata, so may look into the dedicated gloss coats.

So the acrylics wont give that white look? What infact causes those nasty reactions? I see too little drying time from the above poster on here but anything else?

I have always just flatted over decals with spray MM dullcote over the years and weathering always would always hide any issues with silvering as I never saw any issues.




Windex wont harm your Iwata. I have ran acetone through mine for years and its still going strong. You can clean up Future with
rubbing alcohol and youll be ok. Basically any acrylic thinner will do, just dont wait too long before cleaning, you dont want that stuff to set up INSIDE the airbrush.

Most of the time Ill use Future or Alclad aqua gloss for clear coating. Both work exceptionally well and either one is a good choice. Just make sure to let them fully cure before decaling, especially if you are using any decal solutions.

Another good option to consider for a flat coat is AK's Ultra Matte Varnish. I used to use the Testor's dull coat but since I weather primarily with oils now that is no longer an option. I have had good experiences with Vallejo's matte coat, however on my last build, the matte coat seemed to haze slightly ( possibly from me not thinning properly). But I have been very impressed with the Ultra Matte Varnish from AK.

Hope this helps.
165thspc
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Posted: Sunday, January 21, 2018 - 10:39 PM UTC
I just brush on the Future right out of the bottle, apply the decal and then brush on more. It is self-leveling and drys to a smooth surface.

I have had excellent success and a number of examples of the work have been posted around this site.

It is interesting in that I switched to the Tamiya Flat Clear (TS-80 - rattle can) for my top coat because I was getting the same spitting and texturizing from a previous product. Upon using it I was immediately impressed with what I will describe as a higher working pressure and a nozzle that atomizes the paint at a much better rate.