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For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
T-35 Soviet gigant
habouji
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Jihocesky Kraj, Czech Republic
Member Since: August 07, 2017
entire network: 40 Posts
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Posted: Sunday, December 17, 2017 - 01:41 AM UTC
my new work are heavy Soviet multituret tank. From ICM and PE part Eduard

many wheals :-)

little bend here

here is scale its really huge



start motor and driver position
some part are improvment

paited motor and manifold by wire

compled motor and gearbox



this be visible


and some turet

some weld and PE part




Gun turet
weld and little update from Evegreen profile





KoSprueOne
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Myanmar
Member Since: March 05, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, December 17, 2017 - 04:22 AM UTC
Ok, looking good esp with your added details.




ColinEdm
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
ARMORAMA
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Alberta, Canada
Member Since: October 15, 2013
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Posted: Sunday, December 17, 2017 - 05:35 AM UTC
Good stuff, I've always liked these beasts.
JSSVIII
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Massachusetts, United States
Member Since: March 28, 2007
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Posted: Sunday, December 17, 2017 - 05:36 AM UTC
Good start Jan, nice weld beads, I wish there were photos of the interior of the real thing, or at least the turrets. You would be able see quite a bit of the turret interior through those hatches.
habouji
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Jihocesky Kraj, Czech Republic
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Posted: Sunday, December 17, 2017 - 09:09 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Good start Jan, nice weld beads, I wish there were photos of the interior of the real thing, or at least the turrets. You would be able see quite a bit of the turret interior through those hatches.



unfortunately this kit has no interior. I completed the main turret there is a detail more.

Its hard find interior photo
habouji
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Jihocesky Kraj, Czech Republic
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Posted: Monday, December 18, 2017 - 05:46 PM UTC
i completed main gun turet.









spongya
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Member Since: February 01, 2005
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Posted: Monday, December 18, 2017 - 05:52 PM UTC
Just wow.
habouji
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Jihocesky Kraj, Czech Republic
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Posted: Tuesday, December 26, 2017 - 08:16 PM UTC
reworked aerial



new headlight + latch and PE horn




adding mising nuts and failsafe wire


20 ton jack and compled reworked and adding nuts and weld





on this kit is bad loophole (for T28) in T35 there is photo


habouji
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Jihocesky Kraj, Czech Republic
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Posted: Saturday, December 30, 2017 - 03:35 PM UTC
little progres












Muftyman
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Praha, Czech Republic
Member Since: March 12, 2011
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Posted: Saturday, December 30, 2017 - 04:04 PM UTC
Hi Jan

Nice progress being made. I'm following with interest.

Greetings from Prague
Tobias5555
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Hessen, Germany
Member Since: October 26, 2015
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Posted: Saturday, December 30, 2017 - 08:37 PM UTC
Great updates on this Monster.
Scarred
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Washington, United States
Member Since: March 11, 2016
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Posted: Saturday, December 30, 2017 - 10:01 PM UTC
What a beast from someone's warped mind. And it's looking great!
RobinNilsson
Staff MemberDirector of Member Services
KITMAKER NETWORK
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Stockholm, Sweden
Member Since: November 29, 2006
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Posted: Monday, January 01, 2018 - 04:22 PM UTC
Impressive detailing!

/ Robin
habouji
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Jihocesky Kraj, Czech Republic
Member Since: August 07, 2017
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Posted: Tuesday, January 02, 2018 - 01:42 AM UTC
Thank you all for the nice comments, I'm happy that you like my work!
dutik
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Germany
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Posted: Tuesday, January 02, 2018 - 03:09 AM UTC
Very impressive! Your added details bring this old kit to new life!

Watching with interest
Dioramartin
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New South Wales, Australia
Member Since: May 04, 2016
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Posted: Tuesday, January 02, 2018 - 03:43 PM UTC
I agree with everyone Jan this land-battleship is looking superb thanks to your excellent detailing. It really deserves to star in a diorama with figures, to emphasise its size
RobinNilsson
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Stockholm, Sweden
Member Since: November 29, 2006
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Posted: Tuesday, January 02, 2018 - 07:52 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Thank you all for the nice comments, I'm happy that you like my work!



Hi Jan,
Many years ago I built both the T-35 and IT-28 from ICM.
One of them, and I do not remember which one, had problems with how the track fitted over the sprocket wheel.
With one track link on each tooth there was a gap between the links. I "solved" this by reducing the diameter of the sprocket until the links would join to form a continous track.
There was some kind of edge/shelf inside of the teeth which I filed down and then I had to file down the teeth as well.
/ Robin
sgtreef
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Oklahoma, United States
Member Since: March 01, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, January 03, 2018 - 04:47 PM UTC
Nice work bringing this early kit up to par.
Pushing the bar up, and glad after what you have to do, I am not trying one. LOL
Great job.

habouji
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Jihocesky Kraj, Czech Republic
Member Since: August 07, 2017
entire network: 40 Posts
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Posted: Wednesday, January 03, 2018 - 05:11 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Thank you all for the nice comments, I'm happy that you like my work!



Hi Jan,
Many years ago I built both the T-35 and IT-28 from ICM.
One of them, and I do not remember which one, had problems with how the track fitted over the sprocket wheel.
With one track link on each tooth there was a gap between the links. I "solved" this by reducing the diameter of the sprocket until the links would join to form a continous track.
There was some kind of edge/shelf inside of the teeth which I filed down and then I had to file down the teeth as well.
/ Robin



i wan using Fruil metal track I hope there will be no problem
habouji
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Jihocesky Kraj, Czech Republic
Member Since: August 07, 2017
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Posted: Monday, January 15, 2018 - 12:55 AM UTC
here little progres










habouji
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Jihocesky Kraj, Czech Republic
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Posted: Monday, January 29, 2018 - 06:43 PM UTC
and start coloring and fading and wash












VMIVince
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North Dakota, United States
Member Since: September 28, 2009
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Posted: Friday, February 09, 2018 - 10:09 PM UTC
Great work. I'm curious, what technique do you use to recreate those beautiful weld lines? Thinned putty in a syringe?

C[ ]
habouji
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Jihocesky Kraj, Czech Republic
Member Since: August 07, 2017
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Posted: Sunday, February 11, 2018 - 01:22 AM UTC
Thank you! I use two ways to make the weld lines. Either I roll a very thin thread out of the putty (I use Miliput) and then use a toothpick (I cut the tip to make it sharper and narrower) to create the weld texture. Or I cut a piece of the plastic frame left over after taking out all the model parts, I heat it above a flame (normal candle) and stretch it to get a thin line. I lay this on the place where I want to have the weld, tap some thinner over it to soften it and use some metal round-pointed tool to form the weld structure. The putty is good for corner welding while the other technique is better for rims and edges.
habouji
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Jihocesky Kraj, Czech Republic
Member Since: August 07, 2017
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Posted: Tuesday, February 20, 2018 - 04:07 PM UTC
and finaly photo. This tank is really monster
















210cav
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Virginia, United States
Member Since: February 05, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, February 21, 2018 - 03:38 AM UTC
Jan-- Outstanding workmanship
Very well done
DJ