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Armor/AFV
For all military ground-force modelling subjects.
Tasca Jumbo with the new Real Colors
Ramanathan
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Pest, Hungary
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Posted: Monday, January 08, 2018 - 03:16 AM GMT+7
Really nice finish, Rick! I love the weathering (not overdone, just perfect for my taste) - the only thing I would do other way is the track: it seems too clean compared to the vehicle. So some dirt there would make your build even better But You made me wish to start my Jumbo from the stash...
cheers,
Zsolt
JSSVIII
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Posted: Monday, December 25, 2017 - 11:51 PM GMT+7
Beautiful build Rick!
canismalus
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Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany
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Posted: Monday, December 25, 2017 - 11:35 PM GMT+7
Hi Rick,

You're very welcome and your Jumbo looks fantastic! Can't wait to see your photo feature.

Thanks again for trying these paints out and doing the blog.

Happy Holidays,

Jerry
clovis899
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Posted: Thursday, December 21, 2017 - 01:51 PM GMT+7
Thanks Jerome!!
Decals came in the mail yesterday and on the Jumbo today. Worked in a little stowage and an air recognition panel as well to add a little color.


I will try to take enough quality photos to create a photo feature tomorrow of the finished product.

To reiterate, the purpose of this blog was to test out the new Real Colors. I used the new thinner and the Allied set which comes with Flat Black, Olive Drab no. 9, Faded Olive Drab, and Earth Yellow no. 6. The paints all handled well and provided a nice smooth luster-less and durable surface. I'm looking forward to adding a few more sets to my arsenal.

Cheers,
Rick
Kenaicop
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Posted: Wednesday, December 13, 2017 - 03:48 AM GMT+7
What can I say that hasn’t already been said?! Great job
kunjuro
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Philippines
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Posted: Tuesday, December 12, 2017 - 04:15 PM GMT+7
Looks great! Love the faded US Decals. Also like the restrained finish and weathering.
canismalus
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Posted: Friday, December 08, 2017 - 08:12 PM GMT+7
Hi Rick,

That’s a nice build and tasteful finish + weathering - thanks for taking the plunge and trying out the new AK colors, I might have to try some out myself.

I have the Tasca Sherman Jumbo kit, and am probably going to build one of the 76mm options (or use aftermarket decals) so you can have my registration numbers for option #2. I‘ll shoot you a PM in a sec so we can sort out the details.

Jerry
clovis899
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Posted: Friday, December 08, 2017 - 05:54 PM GMT+7
Marian and Michael,
Thank you for your comment, you are far to kind. Michael, the wood effect is very easy, light yellow/tan color with acrylic/enamel (really, anything other than oils), let dry, apply a light coat of any umber or sienna, let it sit for five minutes then remove it with a brush or Q-tip. Wax on, wax off, very easy and effective.

Well, I think I am at the finish line with the painting and weathering. Would love to get a couple of decals if someone has the Tasca Jumbo and is planning on one of the 76mm armed tanks I could really us your registration codes for painting and marking option 2!

Here is the finished result.

The other side...

The front and the rear view...



Love photos, they reveal what you gloss right over, like I forgot to paint the taillights! Also, I am not sure about the commander's cupola armored glass; ideas or options anyone?
As far as the AK Real Colors go, the set I have really impressed me. Smooth, easy to work with and clean up. I know my buddy Jon is having an issue with chipping, but I didn't do any, so I can't really weigh in on that, but for straight airbrushing they are top notch. For regular brushing I only used them for small areas, I had no issues but hard to say what the verdict will be on large surfaces. Maybe I'll do a piece of French armor with one of those wild camo schemes next. Always liked the look of the Somua S35!

Cheers,
Rick
165thspc
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Posted: Thursday, December 07, 2017 - 07:27 AM GMT+7
Your woodwork looks beautiful - very jealous.

Thanks for sharing your process.
guni-kid
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Posted: Wednesday, December 06, 2017 - 08:41 PM GMT+7
The results look fine and convincing to me. Thanks for describing your steps and for the evaluation of the paints. It's much appreciated!
clovis899
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Posted: Wednesday, December 06, 2017 - 07:09 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

With the brush they're like the tamiya if you don't leave the first coat dry perfectly the second lifts te first coat or don't put 2 stroke in same spot or get messy,basically a pain in the .... (I hate brush tamiya they are orribile) or they go down like vallejo and others water based acrylics?...if you understand what I mean


Ps: thanks for your review!



It was not quite like Vallejo but very close. I thinned it down quite a bit. What you see is about three or four coats. I didn't try to overwork the paint but let it dry a minute or two between coats. On a 1-10 scale for brush painting with 1 being Tamiya like and susceptible to lifting and a 10 being Vallejo like with the brush I would rate this paint about a 7 after thinning. It does seem much more durable than Vallejo so that is a bonus if you are going to have to handle the model at all.

Hope that helps.

Cheers,
Rick
Vicious
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Posted: Wednesday, December 06, 2017 - 06:54 PM GMT+7
With the brush they're like the tamiya if you don't leave the first coat dry perfectly the second lifts te first coat or don't put 2 stroke in same spot or get messy,basically a pain in the .... (I hate brush tamiya they are orribile) or they go down like vallejo and others water based acrylics?...if you understand what I mean


Ps: thanks for your review!
clovis899
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Posted: Wednesday, December 06, 2017 - 06:36 PM GMT+7
A little more work tonight. I tried a bit of brush painting; painted the wooden handles of the pioneer tools with the RC030 Earth Yellow as a base coat. Didn't have any problems at all, it felt kind of like thinned Tamiya paint. I thinned it even more before I actually put it on the model. Went on well with no issues at all. Here is the photo of step one.

After letting that dry for about twenty minutes (it dries quickly, not much waiting around time at all) I used some Burnt Umber and Burnt Sienna to give it the look of wood. Here is the photo of that stage.

Finally, I added some leather retaining straps for the tools with paper and some old Aber buckles. The paper straps were painted Vallejo Flat Brown #984 with a little Vallejo Air Golden Brown #032 added in. Here is the photo for where we are now.

That's it for tonight. Tomorrow I should get the .50 M2 taken care of and maybe a light wash.

Cheers,
Rick
clovis899
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Posted: Wednesday, December 06, 2017 - 11:41 AM GMT+7
Michael,
Those examples all look great. Yes, I think it was overkill to use the Mr. Mark Softer; painful lesson learned. I normally only use it when I don't use Future. The turret stars were applied just as you laid out, Future, water, Future, matt varnish, and I really like the way they turned out. Appreciate all the tips you share.
Cheers,
Rick
165thspc
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Posted: Wednesday, December 06, 2017 - 10:20 AM GMT+7
Based on my experience using Future you are making things much harder on yourself than they need to be on your decaling.

I put the first coat of Future on wet with a brush. Then apply the wet decal. After that I lightly blot the decal to settle it onto the surface and finish with a wet coat of more Future dabbed on with a brush. (no more blotting now - just let it air dry.)

Let all that dry over night and then hit it with your favorite brand of matte clear and you are done. (I use Tamiya Matte Clear right out of a rattle can for my final coat.)


Recent successes using this technique:





The Cat Bulldozer hood has been heavily weathered using pastels but the other two models have not been weathered at all.
clovis899
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Posted: Tuesday, December 05, 2017 - 05:37 PM GMT+7
Well couldn't leave well enough alone could I? Even though the finish was nice and smooth thought that a shot of future wouldn't hurt so fired up a little and sprayed the areas where the decals would be placed. After waiting over night I put the decals on and hit them with a few drops of Mr. Mark Softer. Well that was the wrong way to go as the decal solution started fogging up the Future in seconds. Thankfully I did not put on the turret stars, only the reg numbers. Hoped that it would go away as it dried but no such luck. Argh!
Re-wet them and peeled them off, applied the turret stars WITHOUT any decal solution at all, it went much better, thank you.

So, now I am without proper reg codes which I can live with unless someone has a set for this vehicle that they are not using?? Help??? US ARMY 3082929 (the second marking option from the Tasca kit.
Here we are with the turret stars added.

You can see how well they laid down, real nice look to them with just the Future and no decal solution. Resealed with Future then used AK Ultra Matt Varnish (still the nicest matt varnish that I have used) to give a nice flat finish to the paint and decal.
After that I put a bit of the RC024 Olive Drab Faded in the airbrush to hit a few of the upper surfaces and add a bit of streaking. You should be able to see that here.

And here
A few more things to do now; will try brush painting the wooden handles of the tools next. I am going to use RC030 Earth Yellow as the base coat before I add some oils to simulate some wood grain and a bit of a deeper, richer color. All of these colors I have used are out of the WWII US Army Basic Colors (#13) set.
So far I couldn't be happier with the Real Color paints; very nice finish, they spray and clean up easily and mix very well with both the Real Color thinner as well as distilled water.
Cheers,
Rick
Pongo_Arm
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British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Monday, December 04, 2017 - 05:48 PM GMT+7
Just looked through all 4 of my Tasca Sherman kits. and there it was. lol
clovis899
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Posted: Monday, December 04, 2017 - 03:55 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

lol been looking all over for good periscope cover solutions and they are in the kits I own.
Great looking build.



Greg,
Isn't that the way it always is!! LOL, done that too many times myself, must be an age thing.
Cheers,
Rick
Pongo_Arm
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Posted: Monday, December 04, 2017 - 10:46 AM GMT+7
lol been looking all over for good periscope cover solutions and they are in the kits I own.
Great looking build.
clovis899
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Posted: Monday, December 04, 2017 - 10:23 AM GMT+7
Michael,
Thanks for the info, I am definitely NOT a photo guy. Was at our local club Christmas party last night and asked a few questions about this very issue; everyone seems to be way ahead of me. Thanks for the tips; I'll give it a try. It will take a few days however, when I get home the daylight has already left town!
Greg,
Yes, the periscope covers come with the kit. I probably should have added a few more in progress photos for those that have not yet built the kit. I ended up with a completely out of the box build. The photo-etch is limited but very nice. It is a much heavier (thicker) PE than most other manufacturers which helps to give it a bit of added heft. Very nice. If you are wondering about the kit my advice is simple; buy it, you will love it. Goes together easily with no real fit issues anywhere.

Cheers,
Rick
Pongo_Arm
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Posted: Monday, December 04, 2017 - 09:24 AM GMT+7
Did the periscope covers come in the kit?
165thspc
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Posted: Monday, December 04, 2017 - 05:29 AM GMT+7
This is an odd concept for some but since the beginning of camera light meters the meter compares (averages) what it sees to to what is known as a Kodak 18% grey (exactly halfway between solid black and solid white.)

So when you get extremely close up, most all the lens is seeing is the dark tank body so it sets an exposure close to the 18% gray (sort of battleship grey.) However when you take a longer shot (like the tank overall photo) the camera also sees the lightness of the white background and that shifts the exposure to produce a darker image.

Try shooting the photos on a mid-value grey background. All the photos should then come out that medium light grey. This tone would be best for showing detail in the build but not so good for showing the color of the paint.

To show the paint at it's best, try taking the model outside in natural light but still do not use a white background. Perhaps try a dark brown or dark green bath towel to simulate the darker ground work.
guni-kid
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Posted: Sunday, December 03, 2017 - 11:01 PM GMT+7
Wow, they look nice on the model! Especially on your latter pictures (knowing, that they are quite light) but the overall appearance is just nice an brings the hull and turret structures to some real life. Even though I'm not totally in for yet another line of color on my bench I start to like what I see so far...
clovis899
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Posted: Sunday, December 03, 2017 - 01:04 PM GMT+7
Forgot to add one other item of interest; if you are interested in what these paints look like with a German subject check out my good friend, Jon Moy's thread with the Real Colors on a Pz.kpfw. IV B.
https://www.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=264211&page=1
Should be a good one!
Cheers,
Rick
clovis899
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Posted: Sunday, December 03, 2017 - 12:59 PM GMT+7
Here we go with the basic Olive Drab RC023. This first photo is closer to what I am actually seeing in front of me.

This photo is much lighter in tone than what I actually have on my bench; almost certainly due to my phone camera which is what I am using.

Spraying today went much better than yesterday after diagnosing my airbrush issues as a leaky compressor. Had my old compressor still hanging around, hooked up to that and most of the splatter issues were resolved.
The Olive Drab went down very easy, nice and smooth, with a beautiful matt finish. For my money the paint is superb, as a bonus the cleanup was a breeze, much easier than most any other paint I have used. Tomorrow we will hit the RC024, Olive Drab Faded, for the top surfaces. I expect it will go down with out any issues.
Cheers,
Rick