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Cold War (1950-1974)
Discuss the aircraft modeling subjects during the Cold War period.
Hosted by Tim Hatton
Best Starfighter Ever?
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Tuesday, January 16, 2018 - 05:02 AM GMT+7
Guys, thanks so much for the support. I have to say that having finished those panels I wouldn't do it for every kit, but given my aim to make this a sort of showpiece of my collection, well it fits the brief - (my) best Starfighter ever. Encouraged by you I've bought a new web cam and I'll be making another short film soon. Now see what you've done :-)

Happy modelling folks.

Steve
KelticKnot
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Posted: Monday, January 15, 2018 - 11:12 AM GMT+7
Looking great Steve!
I've been doing something along the same lines with stretched sprue and styrene rods and tubes. I have to agree with your point of glueing the piece in place and then sanding it down to size.... it's a much easier process that I too discovered in the last few weeks.
kevinekstrom
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Posted: Sunday, January 14, 2018 - 10:15 PM GMT+7
The kit is coming along nicely. I watched your video and gave it it a thumbs up. thanks for sharing that clip.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Sunday, January 14, 2018 - 01:12 PM GMT+7
Steve, yep-- I have to agree with everyone else-- your super detailing is well...Super! Can't wait to see what you come up with next!
VR, Russ
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, January 14, 2018 - 10:14 AM GMT+7
Steve,
I've more then impressed with your super detailing. The art of it is making it look as though us mere mortals can accomplish it as well. Well my friend for most of us that just ain't happening.

Joel
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Sunday, January 14, 2018 - 07:40 AM GMT+7
Thanks a million Gaz. I have to say it was quite job getting them done, but now the work is finished I think I have some good and real(ish) details. I'm keen to get painting but there's a bit more work to do around the cockpit and I need to build and paint the engine too. As a diversion from all the super-small stuff I think I'll take a look at the fuselage details along the way. It might save my eyesight :-)
Happy modelling.
Steve
GazzaS
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Posted: Sunday, January 14, 2018 - 05:59 AM GMT+7
Steve,
Those detail panels really look great!

Gaz
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Sunday, January 14, 2018 - 03:30 AM GMT+7
After a week or so working with stretched sprue, tiny sections of plastic rod and using Masterclub rivets as ersatz switches, Iíve ended up with a replica of the side panels that I can eventually paint. Itís not an exact replica but it is close enough for me, and I have to say thanks again to Walter for the link to the virtual cockpit tour. Without that I really would have had to guess. I tried filming all this but the work is just too fiddly and small so instead I thought Iíd briefly describe some of the techniques I used.

First those switches. Most of them are made by drilling a hole in the right place in the cockpit tub and then supergluing a Masterclub rivet in the hole. I leave the top standing a bit proud a so later washes have something work with. The tail end of the rivet protrudes beneath. Iíve seen other guys put a version of this technique to good effect by using stretched sprue too. I like the rivets because the top is perfectly round and they are made of resin so don't melt away when glue is applied.

The larger round dials were made by gluing a small piece of plastic rod in the right place, letting it dry and then carefully sanding it down. I find it so much easier to sand these small pieces once they are in place. I just have to take care not to sand other parts. Finally, a small piece of stretched sprue or plastic card is glued on top to simulate the nob.

Other details are made in the same way by building up prices cut from plastic card. Oh, and the holes that simulate the screws or rivets holding panels in place are made with that sharpish clay modelling tool I used for the riveting details in the under carriage bay.

There are two other essentials for this work. The first is a good amount of patience. I reckon for every one item that I was successful with thereís another one discarded. A pair of magnifying glasses are a must too.

Et voila!









P.S. I adjusted the contrast and colour balance in thee shots in an attempt to make the detail more visible.
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Friday, January 05, 2018 - 10:51 PM GMT+7
P.S. If you ever want to remove the coloured printing on Eduard PE, just burn it off with a quick flash from a match or lighter. Then you're left with a standard PE part.
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Friday, January 05, 2018 - 10:48 PM GMT+7
With Christmas and the New Year celebrations fading fast thereís time to properly return to the F-104. I hope you had a great time yourself if youíve been celebrating.

Looking again at the Eduard coloured photo etch that I was going to use for the cockpit side panels left me feeling bothered. Despite the nicely printed dials they are very flat. Eduard gives us the option to add detail but it is so tiny that manipulating it requires the dexterity of a watch maker, and possibly some similar tools. Really though my problem is that the flat printed PE doesnít fit with the rest of the style of the cockpit. I want surface detail to paint. The only way then is to restore the moulded detail I removed. To do that I decided to replicate the panels using plastic card. At first I cut out individual panels and glued them in, but this didnít give a neat finish so I cut those off and switched to scribing lines into the card. Hereís the first attempt,



And take 2



By the way the edges of the cockpit are curved and the plastic card simulating the panels needs to follow the same line. I dealt with this by taping the card in place and then cutting and sanding the edge using the side of the cockpit tub as a guide. I didnít glue the card in place because I wanted to shape it first and then add the scribing. Only one side was done this way because I took a different approach with the side I needed to repair after my botched attempt at the panels.



I thought getting the scribing right would be the trickiest bit. I mucked it up a couple of times and was glad I had the flexibility to start again. Oh, and one last thing. The lines I scribed are out of scale and deliberately so. Their main function is to emphasise the panel lines and provide a channel for washes later. With the area inevitably in shadow once the cockpit is in the fuselage Iím exaggerating detail so it stands some chance of being seen.

Next up Iíll be adding switches, and I have a plan for those too. It might not be a good plan, but itís a plan.

Happy modelling guys.
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Monday, January 01, 2018 - 10:16 PM GMT+7
Joel, I reckon yours is the best approach - get the big stuff done and then add details. Sometimes of course we have to do a complete sub-assembly, like an engine or cockpit before the fuselage is joined together, and I hear what you're saying about fit. I almost always make my own construction plan these days because kit supplied instructions would often have us add delicate details before big assembly jobs are done. That seems like a recipe for breaking and losing parts to me, but I've seen guys on line quite happily go about it that way.

I use a similar technique to you when it comes to filling, except my favourite filler is Milliput. I like the consistency, and it can be thinned with water too. For thin gaps I use CA glue and for the very thinnest Mr Surfacer 500.

Maybe there's a short video on sanding and filling techniques in my future?

Thanks again for the constant enthusiasm and encouragement.

Steve
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, December 30, 2017 - 05:13 AM GMT+7
Steve,
I've learned the hard way that most sub assemblies don't fit like a glove, especially on kits that have been around for a while, so I do what you're doing, and dry fit the assemblies needed to close up the fuselage halves, and leave off as much detail and or parts that I can till the halves are glued together. Sometimes it works, some times it doesn't.

One thing I've found mighty useful for tight areas where filling and then sanding will be difficult at best, is to use a putty like Vallejo White Acrylic Putty. I apply it, let it set up, then whipe off the excess at any kind of angle rather then straight down the seam with a damp Qtip. The stuff really shrinks, so several applications are always the case.

BTW, watched your latest Video, and it's really outstanding.

Joel
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Saturday, December 30, 2017 - 01:33 AM GMT+7
These days I usually build kits in sub assemblies before I paint anything. I say Ďusuallyí because I tend to do what seems best at the time and sometimes that means taking a different approach. I also try to build, fill and sand big parts before fitting details. That way I avoid damaging small parts during construction or obscuring places I need to work on. Oh, I test fit a lot too; a few stages ahead if taping parts together allows it. Hmmm, yes, you might say I err on the side of caution.

It was during a test fit of the main landing gear bay into the fuselage that I realised this kit offers an interesting option for the general assembly and painting sequence. It would be possible to work on the details of the bay, and paint it fully, after itís attached to the fuselage. Whatís more there are only four sub assemblies that must go onto the fuselage before itís closed: the cockpit, the engine, the electronics bay and the sides of the main landing gear bay. Hereís what the instructions show.



So, I have a new plan. Work on the main landing gear is suspended for a bit while I return to the cockpit. Iíll finish that, then build the basics of the electronics bay, make the engine and paint the inside, then join the fuselage halves and do any sanding a filling needed. Finally I'll go back and detail the exposed parts. I canít remember which general said ĎNo plan survives contact with enemyí or something like that, so Iím staying flexible, but thatís the plan.

Hereís an example of why I like to test fit do the big work first. That gap between the fuselage and wheel bay bulkhead will be very difficult to fill once the space is crammed with pipes and cables.



And a sneak peak into the future. The fuselage looks like it will go together well as long as none of the interior parts cause problems.



If you need some zen music while you do tedious tasks like revetting or building tracks try this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBQivMKS5rc

Happy modelling folks.

Steve
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Friday, December 29, 2017 - 12:08 AM GMT+7
Hey Russ

I must admit that I haven't tried the Archer sets. Come to think of it, I seem to remember seeing a video on them ages ago. Im going to check them out and splash some cash. Even if I don't use them on this build it will be fun to experiment.

And Mark

Thanks so much for the vote of confidence. I'm not sure what the next subject will be yet, but there will be one. Watch this space for more news.

Have a great day guys.

Steve
md72
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Posted: Thursday, December 28, 2017 - 04:54 PM GMT+7
Thanks Steve, I've signed up so now you have to make more
Kevlar06
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Posted: Thursday, December 28, 2017 - 01:20 PM GMT+7
Steve,
Have you tried the Archer rivet sets? They make a series of rivets in various sizes that are on decal paper, and you can cut them into strips. The carrier film is so thin and fine it almost disappears under a coat of primer or paint. They are really useful for em-placing lines of rivets, and come in various spacing's and sizes, but must be applied over a painted finish. Much easier to use than a rivet wheel tool or individually embedding rivets. They are pricey though-- about $16 USD for a sheet.
VR, Russ
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Thursday, December 28, 2017 - 09:31 AM GMT+7
Hey Joel

Scout's honour, I'm a newbie when it comes to cameras, youtube and the whole video thing. I've basically copied the style of video tutorials I like. Once upon a time I had some training on talking to camera because I was in a job that got media attention very occasionally but that's it. Basically I imagine I'm talking to a friend.

Thanks very much for the feedback. My next technical challenge is to improve the definition. I think that means a new camera. 'Dear Santa...' Doh! Too late.

On those rivets, yes sometimes I sand them down but I like the little crater edges that push up, especially if I'm simulating raised rivets. By the way I recently got an order of Masterclub resin individual bolts and rivets. They are beautiful, and ideal for adding spot details but you'd need the patience of a saint rivet a big area. Have a look at these. The squares on my cutting mat are 1cm wide.



Happy modelling.

Steve
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, December 28, 2017 - 05:57 AM GMT+7
Steve.
Just watched your latest vid, and it's technically that much better then the 1st one. you sure you don't do this professionally? As for the content, it's outstanding.

Just one question. After you punch the rivets and get that raised lip, do you sand down the surface or just leave it that way?

Joel
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Tuesday, December 26, 2017 - 07:47 AM GMT+7
Hi guys

Thanks very much for sharing your experience with metal vs plastic. I've actually been working on the plastic parts and the main landing gear seems very sturdy. The metal replacement I have is soft. The small parts are easily bent and doesn't feel much stronger to be honest. Having said that I'll keep your advice in my thoughts and my options open and work on both until the moment of truth comes. In the meantime here's a second instalment of the vlogs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ss96Qw2pUok

I hope you've both had a great Christmas and are looking forward to the New Year.

Merry Christmas!

Steve.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Saturday, December 23, 2017 - 04:50 AM GMT+7
Steve,
I agree with Joel regarding the metal struts. The 1/32 Hasegawa kit actually uses a wire sandwiched between two halves of the main landing gear struts that double as the wheel attachment points for strength-- so the Hasegawa folks recognized the gear was a weak point. One of the complaints I've heard about the early Revell 1/32 F104 is the landing gear is rather weak, I'd suspect the same from the Italeri kit if its plastic only. Frankly, after the main fuselage brace is added, and the details are added, you won't be able to see much of the attachment point anyway. You could also shave off or scratch the detail you want from the plastic parts and reattach it to the metal parts with cyanoacrylate. I'd go with the metal-- the kit is heavier than you think, and the metal gear will give you more support.
VR, Russ
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, December 23, 2017 - 02:44 AM GMT+7
Steve,
I see your points about the landing gear with both the plastic and cast parts being less then ideal. I'm currently working on the Eduard struts for my F6F-3, and even though the detail is excellent, every single surface suffers from a main seam line from the mold joint. Just the nature of the beast.

I would take another look at the metal replacement part as it seems to have a lot of crisp detail. Cleaning up metal is a lot different then plastic, and takes a lot of elbow grease and time. Believe me I know that only to well. But done right, it's worth the effort. Then super detailing from there will raise the bar even further.

looking forward to your next Vid for sure.

Have a great holiday.

Joel

SteveAndrews
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Posted: Friday, December 22, 2017 - 10:14 PM GMT+7
Iím having an Italeri moment. An Italeri moment is time spent wondering how a kit manufacturer can get crisp detail and awful moulding all on the same part. The part in question is the main undercarriage legs (one part of two legs). Having examined it and compared it to the metal replacement, I decided that the kit part was better and plenty strong enough to hold the weight of the completed model. That tells you everything you need to know about the quality of the replacement part.

The problem is that while the kit part is better, itís not good. Thereís a massive seam line to remove, soft moulding and crude detail in places. In addition some of the pistons that raise and lower the legs and wheel bay doors are moulded on, creating little nooks and crannies. It's these areas that are victims of some of the softest moulding and need the most attention. At first I thought that with some patience I could do a good job of cleaning all this. Part way through I decided that a hybrid approach - part clean up, part scratch building - would be easier and in the end give a better result. The plan then is to remove the pistons, scratch build new ones and clean up the legs. Once I have the basic components clean I will assemble the whole main landing gear area and start adding the hoses and other details.

Kit part - not too bad at first glance.


Kit part - ah, that'll need attention.


Replacement metal - alright but the kit part is better and plastic is easier to work with.


As preparation for scratch building Iíve been collecting photos. From those I see thereís a good deal of raised riveting on the ceiling of the landing gear bay. I removed the moulded on detail earlier. Now Iím going to replace it and add what is missing using Masterclub rivets. I've never used them before so an adventure awaits. Iíll let you know how it goes when they arrive. In the meantime Iím planning another video (sound up head in) on the scratch building, so watch out for that over the holiday, and talking of the holidayÖ

Öhave a great Christmas if you are celebrating it. I hope Santa brings you something for your modelling life, and that whatever you do there is love and fun all around.
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Tuesday, December 19, 2017 - 08:50 AM GMT+7
Hey Joel,
That's so kind. Thanks very much. Once my director has a finished her homework we'll make a plan for the next one.
Happy modelling.
Steve
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, December 18, 2017 - 03:01 AM GMT+7
Steve,
It never occurred to me to subscribe as I've got a few dozen subscriptions already for various interests including modeling of course. But I went to your channel and subscribed. Now you have two of us waiting for video #2.

Joel
SteveAndrews
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Posted: Monday, December 18, 2017 - 02:36 AM GMT+7
Hi Paul

Thanks very much for the feedback. Yes I got the framing a bit wrong in editing, and I hope the audio will be better when I switch to my camera.

Wow, I have a subscriber. Wait until I tell my daughter. Suddenly dad might seem just a bit more trendy. Thanks a million.

Have a great day.

Steve