I think I will invest in a Badger airbrush. They aren't too much money, but seem to have pretty good results.
Ok got that down. Now time to propose this plan to the wife.
gentleman, pray for me.
EDIT: Or this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017IFL4E/ref=psdc_2236130011_t2_B0006N72TI
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Ask your modeling related questions here.
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ChurchSTSV
Member Since: September 20, 2017
entire network: 350 Posts
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Posted: Friday, March 02, 2018 - 01:49 AM UTC
Kevlar06
Member Since: March 15, 2009
entire network: 3,670 Posts
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Posted: Friday, March 02, 2018 - 02:32 AM UTC
Charlie,
That's an excellent Paasche-- but note you'll only get a pattern from a fine line to 1/4" inch. That might be enough for a waterline 1/700 scale ship, but it might not be enough coverage for a larger aircraft or armored vehicle, you might want to start with something that will give you a little more coverage. Check out Micro Mark on line, or even Hobby Lobby. At $73 that Paasche is a great deal though. Now-- depending on your source of air, be aware that Paasche and Badger air hoses are not compatible, unless you buy an adapter, or a quick disconnect. You can go to Lowe's or Home Depot, and get a pretty good tank compressor, and they sometimes carry universal adapter sets for hoses--for the compressor end. You might want to check them out. These Hobby ABs will be working at 0-25 or 30 PSI though-- so don't look at compressors that start at 25 and go to 200 psi, that's a little high, and you might get a pressure lock in the AB. And if you look at tank compressors, look for something with a drain in the tank-- trust me, I've been nursing mine along with JB weld for a while now!
VR, Russ
That's an excellent Paasche-- but note you'll only get a pattern from a fine line to 1/4" inch. That might be enough for a waterline 1/700 scale ship, but it might not be enough coverage for a larger aircraft or armored vehicle, you might want to start with something that will give you a little more coverage. Check out Micro Mark on line, or even Hobby Lobby. At $73 that Paasche is a great deal though. Now-- depending on your source of air, be aware that Paasche and Badger air hoses are not compatible, unless you buy an adapter, or a quick disconnect. You can go to Lowe's or Home Depot, and get a pretty good tank compressor, and they sometimes carry universal adapter sets for hoses--for the compressor end. You might want to check them out. These Hobby ABs will be working at 0-25 or 30 PSI though-- so don't look at compressors that start at 25 and go to 200 psi, that's a little high, and you might get a pressure lock in the AB. And if you look at tank compressors, look for something with a drain in the tank-- trust me, I've been nursing mine along with JB weld for a while now!
VR, Russ
RobinNilsson
Director of Member Services
Member Since: November 29, 2006
entire network: 6,693 Posts
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Posted: Friday, March 02, 2018 - 02:47 AM UTC
The tank on my compressor has also rusted through, very close to the drain plug, maybe even in the weld that attaches the plug to the tank. I am planning on replacing that tank with the shell of a dry powder fire extinguisher, upside down so that the opening is downwards. This will give me a larger tank and the new drain plug will be where the water is. All the inlets/outlets will be attached to the metal which used to be the cap of the extinguisher.
/ Robin
/ Robin
ChurchSTSV
Member Since: September 20, 2017
entire network: 350 Posts
KitMaker Network: 88 Posts
Posted: Friday, March 02, 2018 - 02:47 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Charlie,
That's an excellent Paasche-- but note you'll only get a pattern from a fine line to 1/4" inch. That might be enough for a waterline 1/700 scale ship, but it might not be enough coverage for a larger aircraft or armored vehicle, you might want to start with something that will give you a little more coverage. Check out Micro Mark on line, or even Hobby Lobby. At $73 that Paasche is a great deal though. Now-- depending on your source of air, be aware that Paasche and Badger air hoses are not compatible, unless you buy an adapter, or a quick disconnect. You can go to Lowe's or Home Depot, and get a pretty good tank compressor, and they sometimes carry universal adapter sets for hoses--for the compressor end. You might want to check them out. These Hobby ABs will be working at 0-25 or 30 PSI though-- so don't look at compressors that start at 25 and go to 200 psi, that's a little high, and you might get a pressure lock in the AB. And if you look at tank compressors, look for something with a drain in the tank-- trust me, I've been nursing mine along with JB weld for a while now!
VR, Russ
Would it be possible to just get different needles and nozzles to reach the desired effect? It looks like the Paasche is easy to clean which is a big bonus for me. So if I can, I will get additional parts to make it work.
Sorry, I am still new at to what size nozzles I would need to create the desired paint job.
RobinNilsson
Director of Member ServicesMember Since: November 29, 2006
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Posted: Friday, March 02, 2018 - 03:02 AM UTC
Info on the Badger 150:
http://www.badgerairbrush.com/badger_150.asp
click the image and get their instruction booklet, good first reading when starting airbrushing. It clears/prevents some of the common beginners mistakes, it taught me a lot 25 years ago.
The gravity feeds are the 100 series:
http://www.badgerairbrush.com/BADGER_100.asp
I started with Medium needle/head and this works fine for area coverage. The Fine needle/head is for more precision work. For a 1/700 ship I would say that the Medium needle can do 80-90% of the work. It will take some practising before you can do free hand camouflage patterns
Harder&Steenbeck Evolution
I'll be getting myself one of these, partially because they are beutiful to look at
http://www.harder-airbrush.eu/en/evolution-108.html
Fine nozzle is 0.2 mm, medium is 0.4, never mind the larger needles/nozzles
The Olympus I bought but haven't used yet has a 0.15 mm nozzle but I think this will start limiting the types of paint you can use.
/ Robin
http://www.badgerairbrush.com/badger_150.asp
click the image and get their instruction booklet, good first reading when starting airbrushing. It clears/prevents some of the common beginners mistakes, it taught me a lot 25 years ago.
The gravity feeds are the 100 series:
http://www.badgerairbrush.com/BADGER_100.asp
I started with Medium needle/head and this works fine for area coverage. The Fine needle/head is for more precision work. For a 1/700 ship I would say that the Medium needle can do 80-90% of the work. It will take some practising before you can do free hand camouflage patterns
Harder&Steenbeck Evolution
I'll be getting myself one of these, partially because they are beutiful to look at
http://www.harder-airbrush.eu/en/evolution-108.html
Fine nozzle is 0.2 mm, medium is 0.4, never mind the larger needles/nozzles
The Olympus I bought but haven't used yet has a 0.15 mm nozzle but I think this will start limiting the types of paint you can use.
/ Robin
ChurchSTSV
Member Since: September 20, 2017
entire network: 350 Posts
KitMaker Network: 88 Posts
Posted: Friday, March 02, 2018 - 03:42 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Info on the Badger 150:
http://www.badgerairbrush.com/badger_150.asp
click the image and get their instruction booklet, good first reading when starting airbrushing. It clears/prevents some of the common beginners mistakes, it taught me a lot 25 years ago.
The gravity feeds are the 100 series:
http://www.badgerairbrush.com/BADGER_100.asp
I started with Medium needle/head and this works fine for area coverage. The Fine needle/head is for more precision work. For a 1/700 ship I would say that the Medium needle can do 80-90% of the work. It will take some practising before you can do free hand camouflage patterns
Harder&Steenbeck Evolution
I'll be getting myself one of these, partially because they are beutiful to look at
http://www.harder-airbrush.eu/en/evolution-108.html
Fine nozzle is 0.2 mm, medium is 0.4, never mind the larger needles/nozzles
The Olympus I bought but haven't used yet has a 0.15 mm nozzle but I think this will start limiting the types of paint you can use.
/ Robin
Will this work?
https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Patriot-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B002W84GTO
Also, Badger compressors on eBay for $25-$50!
RobinNilsson
Director of Member ServicesMember Since: November 29, 2006
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Posted: Friday, March 02, 2018 - 03:51 AM UTC
I managed to squeeze in a few minutes of quality time, i.e. modelling , and realised that I had forgotten to mention riffler files. These are double ended and bent at each end to allow getting into tight spots. There are multiple types of these, some with a file length of maybe half an inch and others that are larger. Different coarseness but 'fine' is the one we need, coarse is for wood crafting. There are also diamond files of this type but they are mostly useless for plastic. Photo-etch is another matter though...
Google for 'riffler file'. I would presume that Micro-Mark have a few sets.
The fret saw I mentioned before, there is something similar called a jeweler saw.
https://www.pjtool.com/hand-and-hobby-tools/hand-saws/3-adjustable-jeweler-s-saw.html
This can also hold a strip of sandpaper which can be very handy. There is also this tool so maybe they sell the file strips separately
https://www.micromark.com/19-piece-Flex-I-File-Set
In the cosmetics shop you can get sandpaper/file sticks used for polishing nails, very useful for fine polishing of styrene to get a smooth surface.
Don't use putty. Learn to fill holes and gaps with small pieces or strips of styrene. This will result in a filling of the same relative "hardness" as the surrounding plastic which makes the sanding/shaping a lot easier. If the filling is harder than the styrene it will resist sanding better and the result will be "valleys" gouged into the plastic on both sides. If there is fine sand in the putty it will ruin your files (been there, done that, Verlinden 2-comp putty
).
/ Robin
, and realised that I had forgotten to mention riffler files. These are double ended and bent at each end to allow getting into tight spots. There are multiple types of these, some with a file length of maybe half an inch and others that are larger. Different coarseness but 'fine' is the one we need, coarse is for wood crafting. There are also diamond files of this type but they are mostly useless for plastic. Photo-etch is another matter though... Google for 'riffler file'. I would presume that Micro-Mark have a few sets.
The fret saw I mentioned before, there is something similar called a jeweler saw.
https://www.pjtool.com/hand-and-hobby-tools/hand-saws/3-adjustable-jeweler-s-saw.html
This can also hold a strip of sandpaper which can be very handy. There is also this tool so maybe they sell the file strips separately
https://www.micromark.com/19-piece-Flex-I-File-Set
In the cosmetics shop you can get sandpaper/file sticks used for polishing nails, very useful for fine polishing of styrene to get a smooth surface.
Don't use putty. Learn to fill holes and gaps with small pieces or strips of styrene. This will result in a filling of the same relative "hardness" as the surrounding plastic which makes the sanding/shaping a lot easier. If the filling is harder than the styrene it will resist sanding better and the result will be "valleys" gouged into the plastic on both sides. If there is fine sand in the putty it will ruin your files (been there, done that, Verlinden 2-comp putty
)./ Robin
Kevlar06
Member Since: March 15, 2009
entire network: 3,670 Posts
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Posted: Friday, March 02, 2018 - 04:06 AM UTC
What Robin said-- but again, Micro-mark has all this stuff under one roof-worth a check-out, its where I buy my specialized tools. Paasche usually has ABs with interchangeable needles/apertures, but I don't know about that model you're looking at-- you might do some more research on the Paasche website. Robin's note Badger Compressor prices look good-- those are real bargains! I was at Home Depot recently, and they had two smaller compressors there with drain-cocks in the bottom of the tank-- mine just has a nut for an Allen wrench--not ideal, but the drain cocks looked great--along with a label that said "drain after every use" reminder in big red letters on the label--what I need at my age! I'm not happy with the HD or Lowe's regulators though, but you can find a good cheap regulator with a Moisture trap at Micro-Mark, which I think is interchangeable. The HD and Lowe's compressors are a lot more money than the Badgers Robin is referring too, but they can be used with impact wrenches and air tools too.
VR, Russ
VR, Russ
Vicious
Member Since: September 04, 2015
entire network: 1,517 Posts
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Posted: Friday, March 02, 2018 - 04:21 AM UTC
i have a Badger Patriot 105,it's a great starter AB,easy to clean,self centring nozzle (great thing),parts are cheap and easy to find,Badger have also the best customer service ever,most of the time they fix your AB for free,you pay only the postage,you can find easily on amazon the set for super detail,detail and general works, is usually sold with the super-detail setup,look around you can find the patriot at really cheap price,now you can buy also the patriot extreme with the MAC valve (Micro Air Control) on the AB
https://www.amazon.com/Badger-BAD105XTR-Xtreme-Patriot-Airbrush/dp/B01EB569ZY/ref=pd_sbs_201_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01EB569ZY&pd_rd_r=KDX02HKQVJMZJ80R726S&pd_rd_w=n8nNK&pd_rd_wg=NlODQ&psc=1&refRID=KDX02HKQVJMZJ80R726S
for the compressor if you want save some cash but have a more than decent piece of equipment quiet as a fridge I recommend something like that
http://www.tcpglobal.com/MASTC-40T_4.html
or the cheaper version...
http://www.tcpglobal.com/ABD-TC-20T.html
If you buy a Badger majority of the time you need something like that...
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/OPHIR-Badger-Air-Brush-Compressor-Adapter-M5-0-5-female-1-8-BSP-male-AC027/1350937616.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.Es4xCT
..because badger dont use the standard 1/8 hose
https://www.amazon.com/Badger-BAD105XTR-Xtreme-Patriot-Airbrush/dp/B01EB569ZY/ref=pd_sbs_201_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01EB569ZY&pd_rd_r=KDX02HKQVJMZJ80R726S&pd_rd_w=n8nNK&pd_rd_wg=NlODQ&psc=1&refRID=KDX02HKQVJMZJ80R726S
for the compressor if you want save some cash but have a more than decent piece of equipment quiet as a fridge I recommend something like that
http://www.tcpglobal.com/MASTC-40T_4.html
or the cheaper version...
http://www.tcpglobal.com/ABD-TC-20T.html
If you buy a Badger majority of the time you need something like that...
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/OPHIR-Badger-Air-Brush-Compressor-Adapter-M5-0-5-female-1-8-BSP-male-AC027/1350937616.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.Es4xCT
..because badger dont use the standard 1/8 hose
thegirl
Member Since: January 19, 2008
entire network: 6,743 Posts
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Posted: Friday, March 02, 2018 - 06:38 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I think I will invest in a Badger airbrush. They aren't too much money, but seem to have pretty good results.
Ok got that down. Now time to propose this plan to the wife.
gentleman, pray for me.
EDIT: Or this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017IFL4E/ref=psdc_2236130011_t2_B0006N72TI
The Eagle Talon is an excellent airbrush . They have a box set of this model it comes with three different needle sizes and tips . Also included is a fan tip for doing broad surfaces . Been using my for over ten years now and never had any issues with yet . Still haven't had to replace any parts either . Still using the same needle and tip .
Terri
Scarred
Member Since: March 11, 2016
entire network: 1,792 Posts
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Posted: Friday, March 02, 2018 - 10:10 PM UTC
After using standard dual action brushes for decades I made the switch to Grex TS3 trigger action air brush. More intuitive than a standard design airbrush. Wish they'd had these way back when I bought my first dual action. Iwata also makes a trigger action brush, the neo TRN1, about half the cost of the Grex.
ChurchSTSV
Member Since: September 20, 2017
entire network: 350 Posts
KitMaker Network: 88 Posts
Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2018 - 09:19 PM UTC
Alright guys!! Got lots of things over the weekend! Got a revolving holder for airbrushing and many glues and primers. Got a new desk coming with a cutting mat, multi-bladed xacto, work light with magnification, various files, spruce cutters and tweezers. Oh Boy!!
Not I need to pick out a model. LOL
Not I need to pick out a model. LOL
ChurchSTSV
Member Since: September 20, 2017
entire network: 350 Posts
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Posted: Monday, March 05, 2018 - 09:56 PM UTC
OK guys, everything is coming along nicely.
A thought: I want to use some form of filler to seal lines as I am getting started. What would you recommend?
A thought: I want to use some form of filler to seal lines as I am getting started. What would you recommend?
RobinNilsson
Director of Member ServicesMember Since: November 29, 2006
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Posted: Monday, March 05, 2018 - 11:01 PM UTC
This is strictly my personal opinion/taste so take it for what it is worth.
Do. Not. Use. Filler.
Sort out the fit issues before gluing together to try to avoid filling.
If, after some work, the join still will not close it is better to fill it with a strip of plasticard / styrene strip. These can be bought in various sizes and dimensions or you can cut them from various packaging, usually for food.
Test the plastic with the solvent glue you use for the kits, if it glues together then you're in business
Filling joints and holes with strips and pieces of styrene gives a filling which doesn't smear all around the filling.
The filling will also have the same hardness/softness as the kit parts so it will be simpler to sand smooth.
Sanding is reduced to a minimum since the filling is only where it is needed. If the strips are cut to the right size there will be very little sticking out and the excess is easily filed down (see riffler files above).
/ Robin
Do. Not. Use. Filler.
Sort out the fit issues before gluing together to try to avoid filling.
If, after some work, the join still will not close it is better to fill it with a strip of plasticard / styrene strip. These can be bought in various sizes and dimensions or you can cut them from various packaging, usually for food.
Test the plastic with the solvent glue you use for the kits, if it glues together then you're in business
Filling joints and holes with strips and pieces of styrene gives a filling which doesn't smear all around the filling.
The filling will also have the same hardness/softness as the kit parts so it will be simpler to sand smooth.
Sanding is reduced to a minimum since the filling is only where it is needed. If the strips are cut to the right size there will be very little sticking out and the excess is easily filed down (see riffler files above).
/ Robin
Kevlar06
Member Since: March 15, 2009
entire network: 3,670 Posts
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Posted: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 - 12:42 AM UTC
I agree with Robin-- up to a certain point. That point is when the gap is not uniform, really wide, or in a complex shape where even a riffler file won't work. Sometimes a dab of filler is the best way to tackle the gap. In those cases I use the styrene method, but I also us putty. I know lots of folks like Aves filler, Acrylic plastic putty, even cyanoacrylate (super glue) gap filler. At one point or another I've tried them all, including good old Elmer's white glue, some of the acetone based wood fillers (they usually contain some form of powdered wood dust), and Kit Industries Porc-a-Filler ( in my opinion this is the best all around filler, but you can't find it anymore-- it's designed to patch porcelain sinks, bathtubs and toilets, but it's solvent based and very fine grained). In the end, my four "filler" standards are Bondo Red body putty (available in any good auto parts store), Tamiya white and gray putty (Hobby Lobby or Hobbytown or any good LHS), and Gunze's Mr. Surfacer 500 (for really small gaps). All of these are very fine grained, last a long time in the tube/container, are easy to sand, can be thinned, and don't shrink or form pits as they dry.
Having said that, I'm with Robin-- I use Evergreen styrene strip in various widths and shapes to fill gaps wherever possible. I also glue the wings to the fuselage of aircraft before assembly wherever and whenever possible, and I check parts fit and reduce "high spots" to get as close to perfect fit as I can before gluing. It's much better to have a tight seam than it is to have to try and hide a gap with putty and paint,but sometimes it's unavoidable, especially with some of the limited run kits. Have you seen Paul Budzik's guide to fine scale modeling? It's worth a look, and he has the best collection of modelling videos in one place. Paul likes to use dental filler for putty (he's a dentist and can get it) but you don't need much putty if you use Robin's method.
http://paulbudzik.com
VR, Russ
VR, Russ
Having said that, I'm with Robin-- I use Evergreen styrene strip in various widths and shapes to fill gaps wherever possible. I also glue the wings to the fuselage of aircraft before assembly wherever and whenever possible, and I check parts fit and reduce "high spots" to get as close to perfect fit as I can before gluing. It's much better to have a tight seam than it is to have to try and hide a gap with putty and paint,but sometimes it's unavoidable, especially with some of the limited run kits. Have you seen Paul Budzik's guide to fine scale modeling? It's worth a look, and he has the best collection of modelling videos in one place. Paul likes to use dental filler for putty (he's a dentist and can get it) but you don't need much putty if you use Robin's method.
http://paulbudzik.com
VR, Russ
VR, Russ
RobinNilsson
Director of Member ServicesMember Since: November 29, 2006
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Posted: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 - 01:49 AM UTC
In addition to what Russ writes:
If the gaps are large I start with building up layers (laminating) styrene strips) to fill the holes.
Small fixes can also be done with CA-glue. Accelerator for CA or baking soda can speed up the hardening.
Not quite as "clean" and tidy as filling with styrene patches though ...
/ Robin
If the gaps are large I start with building up layers (laminating) styrene strips) to fill the holes.
Small fixes can also be done with CA-glue. Accelerator for CA or baking soda can speed up the hardening.
Not quite as "clean" and tidy as filling with styrene patches though ...
/ Robin
ChurchSTSV
Member Since: September 20, 2017
entire network: 350 Posts
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Posted: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 - 02:23 AM UTC
I hear ya, Robin. I'll see if I can get some styrene stuffs to start working with, but since I am still getting my bearing, i'll pick up some flller too!
ChurchSTSV
Member Since: September 20, 2017
entire network: 350 Posts
KitMaker Network: 88 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 - 01:48 AM UTC
So more questions for ya guys: What kind of paint do you spray through your AB? I am looking at enamels vs acrylics and wondering which one to use.
I have been watching all the YouTube videos in regards to using a AB and they use all kinds of paints. Model Masters, Vallejo, etc.
Help me out guys!
I have been watching all the YouTube videos in regards to using a AB and they use all kinds of paints. Model Masters, Vallejo, etc.
Help me out guys!
RobinNilsson
Director of Member ServicesMember Since: November 29, 2006
entire network: 6,693 Posts
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Posted: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 - 02:11 AM UTC
If you ask all of us the answer will be all kinds of paint.
I stick with enamels. I know that inhaling large amounts of solvents is not good for the health. With the small amounts we use and with proper ventilation it is not more of a problem than living in a big city, fumes from filling gas in your car et.c. et.c. I have tested a some acrylics and they also smelled, different smell but there was still some solvent or other.
I was not happy with the result either but that is a personal thing.
Others like their acrylics and will recommend that you use acrylics. Note that one type of acrylics is not the same thing as another brand.
One thing to consider is availability and cost. What type of paint is easiest for you to buy? Internet shop, local hobby shop?
Look around and see if something catches your attention and then you can ask here for advice. Some paints can be tricky and will only work with specific thinners.
/ Robin
One more thing about sources for cheap styrene sheet.
Broken CD-cases can be recycled as building material.
Check for glue-ability.
I stick with enamels. I know that inhaling large amounts of solvents is not good for the health. With the small amounts we use and with proper ventilation it is not more of a problem than living in a big city, fumes from filling gas in your car et.c. et.c. I have tested a some acrylics and they also smelled, different smell but there was still some solvent or other.
I was not happy with the result either but that is a personal thing.
Others like their acrylics and will recommend that you use acrylics. Note that one type of acrylics is not the same thing as another brand.
One thing to consider is availability and cost. What type of paint is easiest for you to buy? Internet shop, local hobby shop?
Look around and see if something catches your attention and then you can ask here for advice. Some paints can be tricky and will only work with specific thinners.
/ Robin
One more thing about sources for cheap styrene sheet.
Broken CD-cases can be recycled as building material.
Check for glue-ability.
ChurchSTSV
Member Since: September 20, 2017
entire network: 350 Posts
KitMaker Network: 88 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 - 03:42 AM UTC
If I remember correctly, the LHS near me (the ONLY LHS near me) carries Tamiya paint. I was looking at Vallejo and MM online too. I am stopping by there this weekend to see what supplies I can scrape up.
Last time I went there, I can remember some Trumpeter 1/700 kits being there for $40+. I am all about supporting small business but that is insane. I found the same kits on Amazon and Ebay for $20.
Last time I went there, I can remember some Trumpeter 1/700 kits being there for $40+. I am all about supporting small business but that is insane. I found the same kits on Amazon and Ebay for $20.
RobinNilsson
Director of Member ServicesMember Since: November 29, 2006
entire network: 6,693 Posts
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Posted: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 - 03:58 AM UTC
My most local hobby shops are right here beneath my keyboard and behind my screen. It's sad but that's the way it is. Lower prices, larger selection, always open so I can go "shopping" even if work and family takes up the normal "business" hours.
/ Robin
/ Robin
Kevlar06
Member Since: March 15, 2009
entire network: 3,670 Posts
KitMaker Network: 527 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 - 05:50 AM UTC
Charlie,
Again I agree with Robin--to a point. Here's the list of Paint I've used in more than 50 years of modeling. The only constants have been Tamiya and Testor's paints. But I also really like Gunze Mr. Color, but you can hardly find it in the US anymore. These are listed in order of my favorites, Best to Worst. Two paints I have not tried are MRP and Tru-color (although I have tried Tru-Color railroad colors--they are excellent). I know others will disagree, but it's a matter of preference based on ease of use for me:
1) Mr. Color
2) Tamiya
3) Testors (MM/square bottle/Floquil-- but I think they've killed their Floquil line)
4) Tru Color (have not tried any of their new line of Military colors)
5) Gunze Aqueous
6) Lifecolor
7) Vallejo
8) Mig
9) Humbrol
Specialty Paints:
1) Alclad II
2) Testor's Metalizer
Humbrol used to be the best paint you could buy in the 1960s and 70s, but they've had a slide lately with quality. I sort of like Mig and Vallejo, but they are expensive, temperamental, and there's not a lot in the bottle. The best all around paint as Robin has said are enamels. MM can be brush painted and spayed through an AB. Vallego, Mig, and the Aqueous paints are temperamental when airbrushing or brush panting. Tamiya and Gunze Mr. Color are synthetic lacquers, with low odor, for my money they airbrush exceptionally well, although they don't brush paint as well unless they are properly thinned. The only good way to do that is with Mr. Color leveling thinner.
I clean my airbrush with Home Depot lacquer thinner, which I buy by the gallon--it lasts a long time that way. Save your proprietary thinners for thinning your proprietary paint, and don't use another thinner for a different paint (Gunze Leveling thinner does work with Tamiya though).
VR, Russ
Again I agree with Robin--to a point. Here's the list of Paint I've used in more than 50 years of modeling. The only constants have been Tamiya and Testor's paints. But I also really like Gunze Mr. Color, but you can hardly find it in the US anymore. These are listed in order of my favorites, Best to Worst. Two paints I have not tried are MRP and Tru-color (although I have tried Tru-Color railroad colors--they are excellent). I know others will disagree, but it's a matter of preference based on ease of use for me:
1) Mr. Color
2) Tamiya
3) Testors (MM/square bottle/Floquil-- but I think they've killed their Floquil line)
4) Tru Color (have not tried any of their new line of Military colors)
5) Gunze Aqueous
6) Lifecolor
7) Vallejo
8) Mig
9) Humbrol
Specialty Paints:
1) Alclad II
2) Testor's Metalizer
Humbrol used to be the best paint you could buy in the 1960s and 70s, but they've had a slide lately with quality. I sort of like Mig and Vallejo, but they are expensive, temperamental, and there's not a lot in the bottle. The best all around paint as Robin has said are enamels. MM can be brush painted and spayed through an AB. Vallego, Mig, and the Aqueous paints are temperamental when airbrushing or brush panting. Tamiya and Gunze Mr. Color are synthetic lacquers, with low odor, for my money they airbrush exceptionally well, although they don't brush paint as well unless they are properly thinned. The only good way to do that is with Mr. Color leveling thinner.
I clean my airbrush with Home Depot lacquer thinner, which I buy by the gallon--it lasts a long time that way. Save your proprietary thinners for thinning your proprietary paint, and don't use another thinner for a different paint (Gunze Leveling thinner does work with Tamiya though).
VR, Russ
RobinNilsson
Director of Member ServicesMember Since: November 29, 2006
entire network: 6,693 Posts
KitMaker Network: 1,042 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 - 02:16 PM UTC
Good to know that Russ keeps an eye on me and agrees, but only to a point
Humbrol is and was my favourite but the quality HAS slid since the late eighties. One thing I believe they changed was the amount of pigment (paint = pigment/coloured stuff + glue).
Only pigment = dust
Only glue = clear laquer
What I think they did was to reduce the size of the individual grains of pigment, which is a good thing, BUT they didn't increase the number of grains to make up for the loss of total volume. The result was a "finer" paint with reduced coverage. This hit the light colours most. My solution was to take two jars of the new "formula", pour of the "clear" stuff into a small tin, dig out the lumps of pigment from one jar and stick it in the other and then fill up the rest of the jar with the "clear" stuff. This gave me better coverage.
I bought a lot of tins back then and they are still around since family life has reduced the building and painting to almost nothing.
Tru-Color paint: I am testing a "dark yellow" railroad bottle on a Pz III (still assembling plastic) but I am happy so far.
I would be very surprised if they changed the chemistry when they make armour/aircraft/naval paints.
/ Robin
Humbrol is and was my favourite but the quality HAS slid since the late eighties. One thing I believe they changed was the amount of pigment (paint = pigment/coloured stuff + glue).
Only pigment = dust
Only glue = clear laquer
What I think they did was to reduce the size of the individual grains of pigment, which is a good thing, BUT they didn't increase the number of grains to make up for the loss of total volume. The result was a "finer" paint with reduced coverage. This hit the light colours most. My solution was to take two jars of the new "formula", pour of the "clear" stuff into a small tin, dig out the lumps of pigment from one jar and stick it in the other and then fill up the rest of the jar with the "clear" stuff. This gave me better coverage.
I bought a lot of tins back then and they are still around since family life has reduced the building and painting to almost nothing.
Tru-Color paint: I am testing a "dark yellow" railroad bottle on a Pz III (still assembling plastic) but I am happy so far.
I would be very surprised if they changed the chemistry when they make armour/aircraft/naval paints.
/ Robin
ChurchSTSV
Member Since: September 20, 2017
entire network: 350 Posts
KitMaker Network: 88 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 - 08:57 PM UTC
Well guys, (...er..Robin) the wife poo-poo'd the idea of a AB right now. So that is out. Looks like I am going back to the standard of paintbrushes/spray cans. I will try my best to get wheat I deem an 'acceptable' paint job on the beasts and may forgo ships with cam leaning on the morning difficult side (Tirpitz, etc)
I am still pushing forward with my love of modeling and will be picking up some Tamiya spray paints this weekend.
I am still pushing forward with my love of modeling and will be picking up some Tamiya spray paints this weekend.
RobinNilsson
Director of Member ServicesMember Since: November 29, 2006
entire network: 6,693 Posts
KitMaker Network: 1,042 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 - 11:22 PM UTC
Maybe you could compare the cost of an airbrush with a number of kits that you could postpone buying or give up something else for a while?
Camouflage can be done with spray cans as well, it takes a lot of masking but you would need to mask with an airbrush too ...
/ Robin
or give up something else for a while? Camouflage can be done with spray cans as well, it takes a lot of masking but you would need to mask with an airbrush too ...
/ Robin
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