I actually do this intentionally. I wash off the decal glue and set the decals in a puddle of acrylic clear laquer (Tamiya X-22 or acrylic floor polish, used to be Kleer / Clear or Future but I think they have changed the name).
In my experience this makes it easier to make sure that there is no silvering effect on the decals when they have dried.
/ Robin

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I actually do this intentionally. I wash off the decal glue and set the decals in a puddle of acrylic clear laquer (Tamiya X-22 or acrylic floor polish, used to be Kleer / Clear or Future but I think they have changed the name).
In my experience this makes it easier to make sure that there is no silvering effect on the decals when they have dried.
/ Robin

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Here in the States it's called Pledge with Future, not sure what it is in Israel, but it's a clear acrylic floor finish. But that's a hard way to go. I prefer to use Solvaset decal solution and a little application of heat using a small "travel" type hair dryer. I've used this method on Roden decals which are notorious for not sticking. The Solvaset will soften the decal film, and the hair dryer warms it so it conforms to the surface. But you should always apply decals over a glossy finish to eliminate "silvering" where microscopic air bubbles get trapped beneath the decal-- this also tends to keep the decal from sticking. I do admit that I've applied Pledge with Future or just plain Future beneath a difficult decal to get it to stick though, but it's not my preferred method.
VR, Russ