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Armor/AFV: Axis - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Axis forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
StuG.III Ausf.G (Dragon 6365)
k_mero4
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Sofiya, Bulgaria
Member Since: November 26, 2017
entire network: 82 Posts
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Posted: Thursday, December 21, 2017 - 09:57 PM UTC
Congratulations!
Very well balanced color model.
I like! Good luck in the next ventures!
alewar
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Canelones, Uruguay
Member Since: December 27, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, December 21, 2017 - 03:58 PM UTC
Hi Darius, very nice job on this one!
Regards from the south
Álvaro
retiredyank
#160
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Arkansas, United States
Member Since: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Thursday, December 21, 2017 - 03:00 PM UTC
Darius - This is a truly, exemplary build. It's too bad you have to cover the interior.
Kaktusas
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Vilniaus, Lithuania
Member Since: April 12, 2017
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Posted: Thursday, December 21, 2017 - 01:08 PM UTC
Almost finished now. Some small things left to do, such as removing excess dirt from some spots, blending outside of schurzen, antennas, plus some minor stowage, but i will add those later on. Still got to do final mat coat, but got to pick off micro hairs and dust from it first


Kaktusas
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Vilniaus, Lithuania
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Posted: Sunday, December 03, 2017 - 01:53 AM UTC
Few interior pictures. Interior is OOTB, plus MP40 and its ammo pouches from spares box. A lot of details are missing in Dragon kit, but its hard to show internals anyway, unless modeling vehicle under repair, with roof off. I love building interiors, but its hard to close all the work with hatches and panels..


d6mst0
#453
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Texas, United States
Member Since: August 28, 2016
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Posted: Saturday, December 02, 2017 - 04:56 PM UTC
I would say she is dirty right nice. In fact she is ready to be taken to the car wash...LOL
Kaktusas
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Vilniaus, Lithuania
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Posted: Saturday, December 02, 2017 - 03:49 PM UTC
Now run marks are somewhat well pronounced. Using stiff brush i tone them down once again.
Then one more pass with dry and wet splashes, and some more layers of motor oil.
The result is bellow. I would add some more wet effets under fenders, but i will leave it as is, because these will not be too visible under schurzen. So now i will mount wheels and tracks, and will look if i want to weather it some more.


Kaktusas
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Vilniaus, Lithuania
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Posted: Saturday, December 02, 2017 - 03:45 PM UTC
For a tank bottoms, my procedure is:
1)dry splashes (dry = undiluted)
2)wet splashes
3)dry splashes where needed, for added texture

Now after that bottom has lots of texture. Now i tone it down with stiff brush. It creates some dust on bottom. I leave it there for next step. Using diluted wash, or "fuel effects" i add some where i want it to look wet, or add some different colors. In other areas, i put dots of thinner, which runs wide. Basically, i wet entire bottom with thinner. What this does, it carries the dust left from dry brushing the splashes. The result is some run marks. I also add motor oil at this step, as on wet dust it spreads and absorbs nicely.

GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Member Since: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Tuesday, November 28, 2017 - 04:10 AM UTC
Darius,
Very nice looking so far!

Gaz
americanpanzer
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Iowa, United States
Member Since: May 12, 2014
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Posted: Tuesday, November 28, 2017 - 02:20 AM UTC
excellent work!! looking forward to seeing it done
timcc2008
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United States
Member Since: May 12, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, November 28, 2017 - 12:13 AM UTC
This is looking really good. The camo is really well done. Looking forward to more.

vr

Tim
Kaktusas
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Vilniaus, Lithuania
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Posted: Sunday, November 19, 2017 - 12:13 PM UTC
Some progress on the build. I have started doing mud/dust splashes on the stug. Its first steps, now as it will fully cure, with stiff brush i will remove excess, where i feel i don't like it, and with second pass will add some where i want more. Generally, i aim for "dirty, but not to the point you want to wash it" appearance. Before attaching wheels, i will do some "not dry yet" mud patches. I avoid using different color mud products on one kit, as it is hard to blend them realistically. You can easily end up with kit, looking like tank that recently drove in damp potato field ended up in sandy beach

easyco69
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Ontario, Canada
Member Since: November 03, 2012
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Posted: Friday, November 10, 2017 - 01:49 AM UTC
sweet camo
Kaktusas
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Vilniaus, Lithuania
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Posted: Tuesday, November 07, 2017 - 12:29 PM UTC
Well, there isn't going to be much chipping. Browsing my reference books now, and my main observation is that vehicles before, or during battle of Kursk were in good condition. This version of stug was manufactured just before the battle took place. Im painting it in Das Reich markings, which means that it was freshly moved to front. There are not much trees or bushes around battle area that tanks have to negotiate, to explain scraching of the schurzen etc. Around hatches and so on... soldiers were not wearing medieval armor to knock paint of. So in most cases, there will be minor wear in dunkelgelb color, then on loaders hatch, where MG shield touches it when folded back. As well area of hatch, that touches track links on the back of superstructure. Areas where crew or "passengers" walk, will mainly have cammo wear, and only on the extremes there will be paint knocked off. As well, it seems that on drive sprockets, there should be tear only where links touch the sprockets, and teeth themselves should still have paint on, as their tips dont come into contact with tracks (if you dont drive in deep mud, when sprocket itself is already touching the mud). Going to dig in in to the books little bit more, before i start shaking paint .
retiredyank
#160
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Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Sunday, November 05, 2017 - 05:27 AM UTC
I have this kit, in my stash(waiting on some media). I'm looking forward to it, after my m109 bash. Your's is turning out nicely. I look forward to seeing the chipped paint.
d6mst0
#453
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Texas, United States
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Posted: Sunday, November 05, 2017 - 04:58 AM UTC
Nice camo.
Kaktusas
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Vilniaus, Lithuania
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Posted: Sunday, November 05, 2017 - 01:38 AM UTC
Filters + pin wash, now its time to attach hatches, track links and start chipping some paint.
Kaktusas
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Vilniaus, Lithuania
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Posted: Tuesday, October 24, 2017 - 10:12 PM UTC
Got my dose of meditation, in form of painting tires:

Also, attached tools, and coated everything gloss. Now, it will take few days, before i will apply filters, so back to Kettenkrad build
Bodeen
#026
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Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, October 17, 2017 - 02:14 AM UTC
Looking very nice. I can't wait to see the finished product.
justsendit
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Colorado, United States
Member Since: February 24, 2014
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Posted: Tuesday, October 17, 2017 - 12:53 AM UTC
I totally agree... very nice camo!

Cheers!🍺
—mike
Ramanathan
#477
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Pest, Hungary
Member Since: March 21, 2007
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Posted: Monday, October 16, 2017 - 12:34 PM UTC
Hello Darius,
Nice build and a very nice camo pattern!
cheers,
Zsolt
Kaktusas
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Vilniaus, Lithuania
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Posted: Monday, October 16, 2017 - 11:09 AM UTC
Thanks for positive feedback guys!
Test fitted schurzen, they seem just right now. At moment, they are not fixed at place, but they align perfectly edge to edge. I have also started painting wooden tools. For painting wood, i use acrylic tan base, with brown oil paint for the wood grain. They came out little darker than i planed, so i will tone them down a little bit. But first, i need to wait until the oil paint completely dries.



d6mst0
#453
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Texas, United States
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Posted: Sunday, October 15, 2017 - 04:55 PM UTC
Very nice work.
retiredyank
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Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Sunday, October 15, 2017 - 04:36 PM UTC
Nice looking build. Thank you for the heads up, on the schurzen.
greif8
#277
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Bayern, Germany
Member Since: January 17, 2006
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Posted: Sunday, October 15, 2017 - 03:46 PM UTC
I agree with Gary that the camo looks very nice. I also think you did a great job on painting the tracks, the rust looks spot on.

Ernest