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Cold War (1950-1974)
Discuss the aircraft modeling subjects during the Cold War period.
Hosted by Tim Hatton
Dassault Mirage III/5BA Heller 1/72
KelticKnot
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Scotland, United Kingdom
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Posted: Thursday, February 22, 2018 - 04:04 AM GMT+7
A perfectly good fix Thomas, your Mirage is looking great!
goodn8
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Posted: Wednesday, February 21, 2018 - 05:48 AM GMT+7
Decided to stay wih the Supersonics and went the easiest way
with less trouble.
Just cutted off the stick out part about 3mm so it can still firmly follow the wing's shape.
A bit of sanding and reshaping the edge before a color touch up.
Once glued no one ever will spot this roughly done area on the upper surface again.

And there's still space between the tanks and the maximum lowered ( ) flaps.










Now have to move on with the masking ...

See you back, Thomas
goodn8
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Posted: Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 07:16 AM GMT+7
Joel,
thanks for your support! Your tip sounds reasonable but I'm yet not sure what to do. Cutting, leave them off, go with the big tanks???

About the quality control you really point it out. And as you discovered yourself with those wrong decal colors on your Hellcat it's not only a kit's engeneering ...

So still after decades in developing kits, even the top companies are unable to take enough care to satisfy the customers for their money.

Thomas
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, February 17, 2018 - 05:51 AM GMT+7
Thomas,
I've seen similar pylon issues like that before, and there just isn't any rational excuse a manufacture can offer to justify such poor engineering. There is no way that replicates the real aircraft, and it further points out that there is next to no Quality Control or God forbid, building the kit straight out of the box looking for errors like this.

The only solution I can see to cut back on the Pylon overall length so it fits correctly, then reshape it. Unfortunately, that does require re-painting and re-weathering.

Joel
goodn8
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Posted: Saturday, February 17, 2018 - 03:01 AM GMT+7
Hi folks!

Have to admit that I missed my aim in getting quickly foreward with the upper surface ...

Just before starting I did some research (again) and was really confused about the camo. The patterns differ much from unit to unit and even more from the early 80s onwards. Seems they didn't used the same references while painting. And the pale grey underside was only done earlier, later on all was covered with the camo color.

... so more research was needed as I had a look to the tanks.
Mentioned before, I'd like to go with the supersonic tanks - they were commonly rough painted and had not those wavy look like the big ones.
But the colors should be separated for my early bird, so I go my own way to represent a random split ...

Talking about the kits tanks
Should have done a serious dry fit before - the issue of the kit's engeneering you can see below. Anyone can point it out?
Wonder why I never read about it in any builds/reviews before, so thats why I didn't took care of it
It's a bigger issue when the flaps are lowered but even in straight position it is strange since the pylon went over the flap.
Anyhow, have to manage this!

After all it was quite time consuming and the progress is


Btw, before glueing the front canopy I added a small clear piece as a gunsight.


















Hope to move on soon, thanks for looking

Thomas
goodn8
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Posted: Saturday, February 17, 2018 - 03:00 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text

I'm looking forward to you starting the top surface camo, you nailed those lower surfaces for sure!

Magnus



Magnus, thank you very much for your kind comment!
Sorry for not showing any progress on the top side though I wasn't lazy on my build - please see my next post, thats why.

Thomas
goodn8
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Posted: Saturday, February 17, 2018 - 02:58 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text

I agree with Joel about the hand photo! Suddenly the scale becomes obvious and makes your efforts all the more impressive.



Paul, thanks a lot for stopping by and the compliment.
Don't think I'll do this amount on every 72-scale kit in the near future

Thomas
magnusf
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Posted: Thursday, February 01, 2018 - 10:21 PM GMT+7
I'm looking forward to you starting the top surface camo, you nailed those lower surfaces for sure!



Magnus
KelticKnot
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Posted: Thursday, February 01, 2018 - 10:06 PM GMT+7
I agree with Joel about the hand photo! Suddenly the scale becomes obvious and makes your efforts all the more impressive.
goodn8
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Posted: Thursday, February 01, 2018 - 06:05 AM GMT+7
Joel, very kind words indeed!
I really appreciate your sidestep from your own (not always silky) road and resting a few minutes here.
It' more than motivating.

As for the colors I think I didn't really justice the "lighten up the paint in scale-ratio"-rules ...
The greenish looked different when I mixed and tried it and is even more intense on the pics. Maybe I manage to tone it down.
But you see the size - imagine brush work inside ...

Thomas
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, January 30, 2018 - 10:39 AM GMT+7
Thomas,
Even though I've been along for the ride since the beginning, and knew that your build is in 1/72 scale, seeing it laying in the palm of your hand is the 1st time that I actually realized just how small the Mirage III is. And then to see all that added detail is even more amazing.

Your gray paint and weathering really turned out quite well. Not overly done by any means. Just enough so that one gets the sense of a maintained operational aircraft. Your main wheel wells really closely match up to the picture that you posted, both in detail, colors, and weathering. Impressive to say the least.

Looking forward to your next update.

Joel
goodn8
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Posted: Tuesday, January 30, 2018 - 05:33 AM GMT+7
Welcome again


While taking the paints out I worked on the gear struts.
The clear parts provide the lights for the front wheel and first I applied chrome-silver from the back than flat black around.

The molding of all the struts is very basic. Added 2 break lines to each of the main ones.













... and as I mentioned before, the wheel wells...

Since the front well was mainly left with a silver paint over all (what web-pics show), the other ones were inboards often uneven painted with some primer at the base and the walls in ???colors (see pics) while the outboard remains silver/alu/nmf










So I gave it a try.
Wasn't sure if I can nearly match it but I'll leave it now as it looks since paint/wash/drybrush/claning/touch-ups in those areas isn't really fun.



























Now I think it's time to turn it round and move on there...


Thanks for looking, Thomas
goodn8
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Posted: Friday, January 26, 2018 - 05:55 AM GMT+7
Hi again!

Little more progress.
Decided to work through the underside first before moving on to the top.
Glossy clear coated (tried out "Winsor & Newton" Acrylics coat, yellow cap; mixed with Vallejo a/b thinner) worked fine and I did some light washing and varying (Flory`s gray and a own mixture). Applied the 2 decals (Remember? 1973...!)that were a bit out of size but to late to correct. Fragile but snuggling down with some help.









Finally covered with satin gloss (again "W&N")than removed the tape from the wells and masked them from the outer lines.
All covered up and some coats of a primary silver shine.
Now I have to modify the wells color partially and bring the details more out.












btw: the rest of the paint I used as a first coat for the Zero-Engine for the PTO cpgn. ...







Didn't want to do too much weathering nor a factory fresh a/c.
Surely you can find much more used/abused units ...





The latest from today in natural daylight.










Appreciate your stopping by, Thomas
goodn8
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Posted: Friday, January 26, 2018 - 05:52 AM GMT+7
Joel, thank you so much for your kind words!
That means much to me and your judging is a real compliment

Whenever I follow your builds I'm always impressed about your sense and skill for painting and your good eye for bringing the colors to life finally.

Since I made less than 10 builds (and 4 hangar queens) after returning to scale modelling I´m happy so far.
Nevertheless I have to improve my skills and learning curve in many ways.

Thomas
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, January 15, 2018 - 07:03 AM GMT+7
Thomas,
I'm just lovin' your shading and fading paint technique. Now that's thinking out of the box and it not only works, it looks great.

I'm a firm believer in a varied, non-pattern form of pre-shading where the end result that shows through the color coats looks random but realistic due whatever external factors would come into play. And you've achieved that.

As you've seen, many light coats works so much better then a few heavier coats.

Looking forward to your top color coats.

Joel
goodn8
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Posted: Monday, January 15, 2018 - 05:59 AM GMT+7
Hi there!

A little more progress on the paint side.
Started with the underside and while cleaning it up I decided to leave some color as preshade residues.
Roughly covered up the wells that will be done later on to avoid too much color overlay on the tiny details inside.
Since I'll go for the 5BA most of the pics (depending on the exposure) showing a range from very light gray to nearly white.
My first a/b shots look too greyish to me, so I went for more lightening up with 1:1 diluted white coats (Revell acrylics - running quite smooth). After all it turns out ok to me.














Thanks for interest, Thomas
goodn8
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Posted: Monday, January 15, 2018 - 05:59 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text

Thomas,
The primer coat really helps to tie it all together. Those wells really do look good.

Joel



Thanks a lot, Joel!
And indeed a quick primer session on scratched parts is very helpful for a better overview although you can't really correct or add/remove something in that scale.
Thomas
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, January 09, 2018 - 05:38 AM GMT+7
Thomas,
The primer coat really helps to tie it all together. Those wells really do look good.

Joel
goodn8
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Posted: Monday, January 08, 2018 - 06:19 AM GMT+7
Joel, maybe some details are out of of scale and not matching the real a/c but I'm quite happy about the outcome.

Before moving on I gave all wheel bays a quick (with one of my cheaper tools - so it's a bit sparkling) a/b-shots with black primer/flat white acrylic to see how the depth aspect works.









Thomas
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, January 06, 2018 - 02:31 PM GMT+7
Thomas,
That's really amazing detail even before one considers that fact that this is 1/72 scale.
Joel
goodn8
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Posted: Saturday, January 06, 2018 - 07:04 AM GMT+7
Paul, thank you for stopping by and your kind words!

While the process I sometimes wonder myself why the f*** I'm doing this in that scale - maybe practising the hard way first makes it easier for the coming builds in bigger scale.
You should definetely try out sprues on your Dakota for detailing although your scratch skills are already great.

Thomas
KelticKnot
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Posted: Saturday, January 06, 2018 - 04:18 AM GMT+7
HI Thomas, sorry I've missed your topic up to now but I see that you've been doing some excellent scratch stuff in a tiny scale !

Stretching sprue is a technique I've never more than dabbled in but I'm considering using it more to get a better variety of thickness for tube and circle shapes.

Still amazed that this isn't 48th !
goodn8
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Posted: Saturday, January 06, 2018 - 03:44 AM GMT+7
Ladies n' Gents, here's a new update.

Took me really more time that I ever wanted. But finally I did the wheel wells as much as I can do (or as I wanted ).
Let's see how it looks after the first color coat ...


With the nose cone on, the intakes and the flaps glued in lowered position it is quite coming to shape. Nose needed some afterwork and putty (as most of the parts and joints) and the intakes still need sanding the seams.

Okay, the current state:






































Thanks for looking & have a good day

Thomas
goodn8
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Posted: Saturday, January 06, 2018 - 03:42 AM GMT+7
Joel, thanks a lot for your response!

Still not made a decision about the belts, so let's see.
I already recognized Steve Andrews' build and what he greatly did. Anyway thank you for the hints and tips and I hope you stay tuned although it's truly not your scale.

Thomas
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, December 19, 2017 - 07:55 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text

Joel,
thank you very much indeed for your more than friendly comment!
It means a lot to me and turned out like a birthday present as it was exactly that day.

I can hardly imagine, that a skilled modeler like you can still be impressed by anything made of styrene.
On the other hand, it tells me that I’m not too bad in doing this extra work what I’ve never done before.
Since I have little time for modelling I almost use my recent builds for practice new techniques as well instead of trying out on any “trash-kit” aside. So it will keep my concentration high, otherwise all previous efforts will suffer.
For the belts: … mmmh, if I had AM belts I would use them – but do not have
The seat’s harness (what I saw in pics) is quite complex, so I think I can’t do it myself in a good scale manner.
Not sure if AM parts will be worth or give an extra upgrade to that old Heller kit.

Thomas



Thomas,
A happy belated birthday well wishes.

Thank you for that complement, but my modeling skills are nothing but average at best. the key to my modeling is to try and get to as near perfect with the basics as I can. That usually will cover up any goofs, admissions, or general screw ups, of which I'm no stranger to.

As far as seatbelts and Harnesses go. I've made them out of masking tape that I tape two pieces together so that it's sticky side to sticky side. I do make each section some what longer, so that I can bent and shape them for added interest. A drop of CCA or White glue will hold them firmly in place. Most jets used a 6 point built system with what looks like additional securing straps here and there. Use thinner pieces of tape for the pull straps, and you're ready to go. As for buckles and latches, some silver paint or very thing aluminum wire like .2mm or so will do nicely.

Steve Andrews did a video on how he makes belts out of Aluminum foil. Great video and a great technique. I'm going to give it a try on my next build.

The whole concept is to fool the viewers eye.

Joel