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Campaigns: Active Campaigns
Campaigns that are either in planning or underway should be grouped here.
Hosted by John Pereira
Crusader to Gazala Campaign
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Member Since: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Friday, December 29, 2017 - 01:58 AM UTC
Don,
Welcome to the campaign! Looking forward to seeing how your vignette comes to fruition.

Gaz
Lakota
#123
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New Mexico, United States
Member Since: November 17, 2008
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Posted: Friday, December 29, 2017 - 03:10 AM UTC
Peter,
My AT-ST is the Ausf C which never made it to prototype. Watch out for the next Paper Panzer...
Take Care,
Don "Lakota"
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Saturday, December 30, 2017 - 12:46 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Peter,
My AT-ST is the Ausf C which never made it to prototype.
Don "Lakota"



Of course Don, I should have realised it wasn't the Ausf B, as there are no tool mounts on the outside!

Have a great New Year. Happy modelling.
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Member Since: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Saturday, December 30, 2017 - 12:57 AM UTC
Best Wishes to everyone for a Happy New Year!!!

Gaz
RobinNilsson
Staff MemberDirector of Member Services
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Stockholm, Sweden
Member Since: November 29, 2006
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Posted: Monday, January 01, 2018 - 02:57 AM UTC
Time to add a start image with todays date.
Bronco A13 Mk II + resin engine deck.
To be built as a "Late" (the other one will be an "Early" in the British Brigade campaign)

Let the sprue cutters begin their dance ....
/ Robin
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Member Since: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Monday, January 01, 2018 - 07:07 AM UTC
Robin,
Thanks for posting your build photo. Always glad to see more British armor.

Gaz
petbat
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Posted: Monday, January 01, 2018 - 12:40 PM UTC
Hi Robin

Always wanted to have a couple of twins on the go at once myself ...... ahem


Is that the Tiger Model Design replacement deck? What is the casting like? I have been looking at that for the A13 in my stash
RobinNilsson
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Stockholm, Sweden
Member Since: November 29, 2006
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Posted: Monday, January 01, 2018 - 01:29 PM UTC
I think it is the TMD deck. I bought the kit second hand with the resin included. My first impression was that it was injection molded styrene, before I saw the pour plugs.
It looks quite nice. I'll post some detail photos later.
I have ordered a few more of these for the other A13 kits in the stash so I'll be able to give a definite answer later.
/ Robin
petbat
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Posted: Monday, January 01, 2018 - 02:12 PM UTC
Thanks Robin
Sean50
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Manche, France
Member Since: March 20, 2007
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Posted: Monday, January 01, 2018 - 07:36 PM UTC
Hello together

A small amount of progress on my Valentine.

Yesterday, first day of the year, first sliced index finger of the year.... (excuse messy workspace):



Anyway, just some interior additions to (hopefully) enhance what Miniart provide. I took some great inspiration from Alan McNeilly's build here.

I changed the instrument panels for the "British version" based on the diagrams in Dick Taylor's book:



Battery boxes and electrical guff:


Pictures are a bit blurred, sorry about that.

Happy New Year to all

Cheers

Sean
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Monday, January 01, 2018 - 08:17 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hello together

A small amount of progress on my Valentine.

Yesterday, first day of the year, first sliced index finger of the year.... (excuse messy workspace):



Anyway, just some interior additions to (hopefully) enhance what Miniart provide. I took some great inspiration from Alan McNeilly's build here.

I changed the instrument panels for the "British version" based on the diagrams in Dick Taylor's book:



Battery boxes and electrical guff:


Pictures are a bit blurred, sorry about that.

Happy New Year to all

Cheers

Sean



I got really really tired of sliced up fingers and thumbs so now I only use the knives/scalpels when it is absolutely necessary and totally unavoidable. The cutters/nippers, small files and sandpaper/sanding sticks do almost all of the work I used the sharp blades for. Occasionally I also use a coping saw to cut larger pieces of plastic.
I have saved a lot of money on bandages and the cost for new blades to replace the dull ones has been reduced drastically.
/ Robin
JackG
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Ontario, Canada
Member Since: May 28, 2006
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Posted: Monday, January 01, 2018 - 08:44 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I think it is the TMD deck. I bought the kit second hand with the resin included. My first impression was that it was injection molded styrene, before I saw the pour plugs.
It looks quite nice. I'll post some detail photos later.
I have ordered a few more of these for the other A13 kits in the stash so I'll be able to give a definite answer later.
/ Robin



As far as know, TMD is the only company that has done any corrections for the A13 cruiser. They also have a set for corrected fenders and storage boxes:



https://tigermodeldesigns.com/?s=a13
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Member Since: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Tuesday, January 02, 2018 - 02:45 AM UTC
Sean,
Nice work on that Valentine!

I made a discovery about myself, blades, and sliced fingers. Since I got back to modelling here in Australia, I bought a cheaper blade that was a little bit shorter than the famous No. 11 X-acto blade.

One day I bought some No. 11 blades because I believed they'd be a bit sharper. This was followed by some bloodletting. The slightly longer blade, just the tip of it, was knicking my fingers time and time again.

Needless to say, I went back to my cheaper, shorter blade once my brain made the connection.

But like Robin, I've also started to rely more on nippers, saw blades, and files. When I need to remove enough where I bring out the knife I shave off fine slivers instead of trying to cut through the thickest area.

Keep up the good work!

Gaz
johhar
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Alabama, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, January 02, 2018 - 02:51 AM UTC
In a small yet important bit of progress, I cut from the sprues and cleaned all 120 tracks and pads for my sdkfz 251 and think I still have my sanity. Smooth sailing from here.
RobinNilsson
Staff MemberDirector of Member Services
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Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Tuesday, January 02, 2018 - 04:54 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I think it is the TMD deck. I bought the kit second hand with the resin included. My first impression was that it was injection molded styrene, before I saw the pour plugs.
It looks quite nice. I'll post some detail photos later.
I have ordered a few more of these for the other A13 kits in the stash so I'll be able to give a definite answer later.
/ Robin



The cream coloured resin doesn't want to play along with the scanner, too little contrast. Digital camera doesn't work either, it's like taking images of snow balls against a white background. I would have to paint it first to get decent results.

For what they are worth:
https://i.imgur.com/Ztjftjc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/azNqVI0.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ozmJWYf.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/PkewSu6.jpg against a white paper didn't really work ....

https://i.imgur.com/IzecdwH.jpg black computer wasn't a hit either ....

https://i.imgur.com/xPgyr93.jpg white-out ...

Oh well, some paint will probably improve things.
The little missing corner is all my fault, resin doesn't like being dropped edge first onto the floor, butterfingers did it twice ..... easy to fix though.

The resin part is possibly slightly less "crisp" than the original plastic but it is minor and after some paint it won't be noticeable.
There are no openings for the rear spring covers so the "lids" will have to be positioned without guidance by openings.
/ Robin
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Member Since: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Tuesday, January 02, 2018 - 05:27 AM UTC

Quoted Text

In a small yet important bit of progress, I cut from the sprues and cleaned all 120 tracks and pads for my sdkfz 251 and think I still have my sanity. Smooth sailing from here.



Johhar,
Progress is always good. Especially when it's the monotonous type of cleanup you've put behind you.

Gaz
JackG
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Ontario, Canada
Member Since: May 28, 2006
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Posted: Tuesday, January 02, 2018 - 06:07 AM UTC
To take photos of white subject, definitely use a back background. Don't use flash, that washes detail out. Under expose the time the camera lens is open. It will be a darker than normal image. In photo shop program, this is where you dial up contrast and brightness - this will make detail 'pop'.

regards,
Jack
RobinNilsson
Staff MemberDirector of Member Services
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Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Tuesday, January 02, 2018 - 12:33 PM UTC

Quoted Text

To take photos of white subject, definitely use a back background. Don't use flash, that washes detail out. Under expose the time the camera lens is open. It will be a darker than normal image. In photo shop program, this is where you dial up contrast and brightness - this will make detail 'pop'.

regards,
Jack



Thanks!!
/ Robin
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
Member Since: August 06, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, January 02, 2018 - 12:56 PM UTC
Thanks for trying Robin. I'm sure a lick of paint will help with pics. I find a mid blue or green back ground helps as black is a high contrast colour which tends to bleach out white/cream anyway. Also if you have a range of colours, your digital camera will find better balance e.g.


Off to a good start Sean.... but why say 'first sliced finger'.... are you planning to do this often?

Gaz you are in Australia now, you say clippers here, not nippers, unless you have a team of young lifesavers helping you with your build:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nippers

Johhar, getting the links cleaned up is half the build done, almost.

GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Member Since: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Tuesday, January 02, 2018 - 01:23 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks for trying Robin. I'm sure a lick of paint will help with pics. I find a mid blue or green back ground helps as black is a high contrast colour which tends to bleach out white/cream anyway. Also if you have a range of colours, your digital camera will find better balance e.g.


Off to a good start Sean.... but why say 'first sliced finger'.... are you planning to do this often?

Gaz you are in Australia now, you say clippers here, not nippers, unless you have a team of young lifesavers helping you with your build:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nippers

Johhar, getting the links cleaned up is half the build done, almost.




C'mon mate... You know it's Clippahs.
minas-ithil
#110
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Florida, United States
Member Since: September 20, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, January 03, 2018 - 02:36 AM UTC
To One and All,
I am in this campaign with the Tamiya Pz IV D. Yes, the venerable mid-70's kit! It is one I have always liked and for its day was pretty nice. I will be building it essentially OOB. I was going to correct the tracks to the 38cm tracks from the kit 40cm, but in looking at the surgery needed on the sprocket, I have chickened out. I may revisit this issue before completion.

Anyway, here is the sprueshot and the first progress photo. Mainly getting the wheels out of the way.





I have picked up the Miniart 38cm PzIV track set. Very nice and the fit the spacing on the sprocket teeth of the Tamiya kit, but the sprocket is too wide.

As stated, I may revisit this sprocket issue.

Thanks,
Stephen
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Member Since: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Wednesday, January 03, 2018 - 10:48 AM UTC
Stephen,
Glad to see you! That Tamiya kit is a great one! I really enjoyed it years ago. I did mine in gray so I could use the crew as pictured on the box. an't wait to see yours!

Gaz
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Member Since: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Wednesday, January 03, 2018 - 11:32 AM UTC
Speaking of Panzers, here is my Pz IIIG in it's current state.

I want to depict a vehicle which is worn after having a relatively thorough field paint job. I used three shades of self-mixed RAL 8000.

I gave the most wear to access hatches for the Final Drives, Engine covers, and access routes where I assumed the crew members would have clambered up to their stations.

In a few places my wearing technique went all the way through to the white Tamiya Primer. I'll either retouch with Panzer gray or use some steel pigments. Which do you think would be better?

The turret bin is where I assume all the crew would have their personal gear. So, I'll have to do more weathering here. With my own personal experience of living on your weapon station for months on end, I can tell you that soldiers are always rifling their packs for something whether it's a toothbrush, a book, or some pogey bait.

Happy modelling!

Gaz
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
Member Since: August 06, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, January 03, 2018 - 11:42 AM UTC
Stephen if you have any Dragon Panzer IV based kits check out the sprues to see if you have any that have extra sprockets from their other kits. You may be lucky and find one that has the D sprockets in it. Otherwise, can you shave out the centres of the Tamiya sprockets and Idler to narrow them, you don't need to remove much in the scale.

If you lived in Oz I could send you some Trumpeter or Tristar ones and you might have got them before the end of the build !

Another option is to put up a wanted post in the Forum here and ask if anyone local to you has Dragon spares. Their E has 2 idlers one with the etch ring and one without and maybe someone has a spare sprocket... can't hurt to ask as a lot of guys over there are happy to post spares to people.

Gaz, looking good so far. I'd go a dark brown myself as that is not too shiny. Vallejo German camo dark Brown is ideal.


....and I'll bite (pun intended) what is pogey bait? Knowing you it some form of sweet....
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Member Since: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Wednesday, January 03, 2018 - 02:03 PM UTC
HI Peter,
Pogey bait is really just any food that isn't issued by the gov't that a person might take to the field. Many people preferred Ramen Noodles while I was fond of tins of beefaroni when I went into the field. It could be anything, really.


Ideally you didn't want anything easily damaged, melted, crushed, or ruined by water. Your ALICE pack was never treated gently.

Gaz