I have a couple of different streaking effects from ammo and I'm having alot of problems getting them to work the way everyone else seems to be able to. I've never had any problems getting a good streaks with my oil paints but I was curious about migs streaking grime & rust effects. I've tried them on different surfaces and with different brushes. I've experimented with different drying times, but I either end up wiping them totally away or making cloudy stains. The only variable I can think of at this poi t is my thinner. I've been using Mona Lisa odorless thinner. Should I buy some ammo or ak spirits? Any advice would be extremely welcome.

They are tough to get right, but once you develop your technique you'll be fine. The whiteish/matte marks you're leaving are most likely the thinner you're using.

For me, I apply a sealing coat over my paint--typically Vallejo Satin Varnish, or Humbrol Gloss Clear. I let that dry for at least 24 hours then do the streaking. I use the AMMO product straight out of the bottle and apply dots and lines where I want them. I then let that dry for at least an hour. Next, I use Gamsol--an odorless mineral spirit you can get at an art supply shop. It's very mild, and doesn't seem to damage my sealing coat, nor the base paint. Anyhow, dip your brush (I use a soft flat sable brush) in the gamsol, and wipe off about 50% of it. I make ONE drag down, let the AMMO soften up a little, and then ONE drag up. If this doesn't give me the results I'm after, I make another super light drag up and call it good. Don't be afraid to let it dry and apply another layer.they all blend in and get kind of "grimy".

I have also used Tamiya's X-20 (not X-20A) and come out with some good results, but you have to work very carefully with it as it will eat your sealing coat and you'll start to pull off paint.

If I can be of any more help at all, please let me know!

Here's some very light streaking using AMMO's dark streaking grime and Gamsol (if you look at the inside of the left arm, you can see where I applied the effect, and forgot to streak it before sealing it):

I'm going to try using the dot technique similar to when I use oil points. I've been using the method mig instructs and painting the streaks outright, with no success. I think what you're suggesting might work alot better. You definitely have the effect that I'm going for. I'll grab some gamsol from my local art supply store. Ive had the best luck working on a vallejo satin finish. I don't think I've ever waited more than 20 or 30 mins to dry though. I'm going to work on some practice pieces in the meantime and report back. Thank you for your help with this. I was really excited about getting these products and anxious to use them.

Look at the top of the barrel on this build. I applied the satin varnish (I also have consistent good results with this product) and let it dry for about 30 minutes. I then applied the AMMO Rainmarks effect. It supposed to work like the streaking products, but as the varnish was still not completely cured, the effect absorbed into the varnish and they fused. I was unable to streak it, and am left with this....mess.

I figured it out tho--I will apply the same rainmarks effect out of my airbrush to blend it all in (I hope).

I recently started using the vallejo satin varnish myself and I'm a fan of it. I thin it about 50/50 with vallejo airbrush thinner and apply several light coats.I was always told to let all of vallejo products cure for at least 24 hrs. I have limited time and can be bad about getting impatient though. I just ordered those rainmarks and have been anxious to try them out. If all else fails, you could do some dust streaking over your barrel with some pigments diluted with white spirit. I've gotten some cool streaking effects with that method. I just finished messing around with some streaks I did earlier in the evening and the extra drying time definitely makes a difference. I've got some blotches to try out momentarily. Looking forward to trying out the gamsol tomorrow. Let u know how it works out.

Interesting. Why are you applying a satin varnish first? I have only used the streaking grimes a few times and they worked very well for me, and I applied them over either brush-painted Vallejo or very well-cured Tamiya acrylics (airbrushed with their lacquer thinner). Used the AK or AMMO odorless white spirit and it worked just like in the MIG demonstration videos etc and did no damage to my base coat (and I consider myself a novice so was was very pleased to actually get a technique to work!!!).

I thought that the more glossy the base coat surface (i.e. applying satin or gloss varnish) the more likely you are to have the issue in the first post - where it all gets wiped away because there is less texture for the streaking grime to adhere to.

Anyway, for me they worked but it was key to have a very very light touch with the blending brush (just using tip of the bristles, not bending the whole length of the bristles over), not much thinner on brush, and only let them dry about 10 minutes.

Whenever I am working on top of a base coat of finished paint I always seal it. If you have a seal layer in place, you can correct mistakes without destroying your paintjob. It also gives me a consistent finish I am comfortable with. Regardless of what the tooth of the paint was underneath it, a satin varnish will make everything uniform.

A satin finish seems to be the ideal medium for my washes, streaks, and pigments to grab onto. That's what I started doing after I watched one of migs seminars and he recommended it. I use a gloss before & after my decals to prevent silvering, but the satin covers that. I think my thinner may be the issue I'm having with my streaking grimes. I played around with them for awhile last night and had some decent luck. I went ahead and ordered some ammo thinner to see if it makes any difference.

Post a pic of your results?

I'm using my phone right now. I'll post a pic when I get home. I meant to mention that I used N.Africa dust enamel effects as a stand in for rainmarks, and it gave me good results as well. I was impressed with your preshading & contrast on your heavy gun. What paint/technique do u use?

Thanks!

This one was a black and white technique. I primed in light grey and pre-shaded areas with Tamiya's Nato Black. From there I used the Mig OD variation set. Basically 4 shades of OD. Start dark and work light using lighter coats each time. Panel line was with Tamiya black panel liner, then the AMMO weathering, some pigments (I use pastels I grind in a coffee grinder) for the dirt on the tires, and a light misting of Tamiya Buff for the dust. Sealed it all with the satin varnish.

I have been trying to upload these images for the past hour and I'm starting to get really frustrated. Im trying to use my phone while my wife's at school wth the laptop and it doesn't seem to be working out. I'm embarrassed to say this, but I'm not exactly the best at this kind of thing. Do you have any suggestions? By the way, I've been curious about those ammo paints. I've heard mixed reviews. Do they shoot pretty well for you? You seem to have gotten good results. I've always used tamiya paint bc I can get it really thin. My badger krome sprays great, but you really have to thin everything down through it. I really like ammo's color range and I've been tempted to give them a try.

Try hosting the pics at tinypic dot com. Grab the bottom link it gives you, copy it, slap it between the img brackets down there VVV.

As far as the AMMO paint, yeah I like it. I have the krome, too and don't have any issues with it straight from the bottle.

I gave up on trying to post the pic onto the forum.I tried imjur & tinypic, but i think im gonna have to enlist my wifes help on this one.I went ahead and sent you a pic via email under the address on your profile.

Just an update. I got my ammo odorless thinner today and it actually does make a big difference.

Nice build there Christian, like that piece, the Long Tom is it not,I built the smaller cousin,with this waiting for one day, this beautiful build wants to build it, dang man only so many hours in the week.Actually first model I ever put in a show the M-115 I think.


Cheers

Jeff